With SIHH 2017 less than 2 months away, brands are pre-releasing selected models to whet our appetites. Among them is Parmigiani Fleurier, which has released the first images of its new Tonda Metrographe watches, sporting tastefully redesigned dials. The new look is definitely more discrete and in our opinions elegant, whilst still inherently masculine. Here is an early hands-on look at the classic yet sporty new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Metrographe.
The old (left) and new (right) Tonda Metrographe
In 2017 Parmigiani, the Fleurier-based manufacture, will reinvigorate its Tonda Metrographe with elegant new dials. The most striking evolution of this smart redesign are the 6 and 9 o’clock sub-dials (respectively 30-minute and 12-hour sub-counters) forming a figure eight which is a traditional asymmetrical layout for Parmigiani Fleurier.
The figure is now framed by more discreet, slightly raised sections of material, in place of the former flat luminescent counters. It seems the brand has very much adopted an ethos of ‘less is more’. This sentiment carries over to the smaller hour markers that enhance the elegance of the model. This new dial feels somehow inspired by the sleek design of the hyper-desirable Tonda Chronor Anniversaire.
Among other changes, the small second now shows a double handed display. The date has been moved from 6 to 12 o’clock, which balances the dial layout while allowing the wearer to actually read the 12-hour counter (the positioning of the date window for the previous versions was a rather puzzling choice). The addition of a tachymeter on the periphery reinforces the dynamic character of the model.
As with previous versions, the Tonda Metrographe beats to the rhythm of the Calibre PF350, a modular (Dubois-Depraz) chronograph based on the brand’s PF331 Calibre (At the SIHH2016, the brand introduced a superb in-house integrated split-second chronograph). The PF350 has a diameter of 12’’’ ½ for a thickness of 6.07mm and offers a 42-hour power reserve. This is rather low, specifically for a twin-barrel movement but it is not a major issue as it is automatically wound. The movement is finished with bevelled bridges and Geneva stripes radiating from the balance wheel. The rotor is open-worked and engraved with the brand’s logo. The PF350 has new date discs that match the color of the dial and now feature the number one in red which is a nice detail even if it will be seen only a few days in the month.
The case of the Tonda Metrographe is 40mm in diameter. It wears well and sits comfortably on the wrist with its curved lugs. Its design combines urban chic and classic elegance. The superbly polished asymmetrical case features tear-drop lugs on the left of the case, whilst the dynamic chronograph pushers have been incorporated into the lugs on the other side. A wide calfskin strap underlines the masculine character of the watch and it is also available with a steel bracelet with a fine satin-finish on the interior and a polished exterior.
Technical specifications of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Metrographe 2017
- Case: 40mm x 11.7mm – steel – sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment, sapphire case-back – water resistant to 30m.
- Movement: PF315 mechanical with automatic winding – 42h power reserve – 46 jewels – 28’800 vibrations/h – hours, minutes, small seconds, date and chronograph
- Strap: Brown or black calfskin with folding buckle
- Price: 11,500 CHF on leather strap / 12,000 CHF on bracelet