Just a couple of weeks after the launch of what we thought was most of the collection for 2022, Omega discreetly adds yet another watch to its collection, next to the Seamaster Ultra-Deep and cool Speedmaster 57 hand-wound. But now, it’s something of a surprise that we’re about to reveal, something that clearly was not expected, but that really, really looks stunning. In short, a 39mm steel watch with coin-edge shaped Calatrava-style case, handsome silver sector dial, true 1930s inspiration combined with a modern hand-wound movement, and at a relatively fair price. Yes, there’s a lot to love here, with this new Omega CK 859 Re-Edition… (and yes, it’s typically something we look forward to having at the office for a review on the wrist)
Claiming that Omega has a rich history and portfolio of handsome vintage models certainly is an understatement. In the past years, Omega has demonstrated a true commitment to the creation of vintage-inspired models that pay respect to designs of the past. There’s hardly a better piece of evidence of this than the Calibre 321, a one-to-one reproduction of a historic movement. The same can be said about multiple heritage-inspired Speedmaster models, such as the Moonwatch Calibre 321 or the 60th anniversary. But today, the brand is going out of its comfort zone. No Speedy or Seamaster, but something that goes deeper into the brand’s history, in fact even pre-WWII.
The new Omega CK 859 Re-Edition takes inspiration from a model that debuted in the mid- to late-1930s, namely the reference CK 859. Powered by a series of different calibres during its lifespan, it mostly is known because it was chosen as the model to debut the then newly developed 30 T2 calibre – one of the most emblematic movements ever created by Omega, and one that has been a cornerstone for most mid-century collections. The 30 T2, a reference to its 30mm diameter, was actually based on the movements that formed the backbone of the brand’s successes in the chronometric competitions from 1940 to 1966.
The original Omega CK 859 is typical of the era’s production; a classic coin-edge case (also named Calatrava) with 3-part construction, flat bezel and raised crystal. Its dial, silvered-coloured, was inspired by the Art-Deco trend and had a so-called sector layout and a succession of different precision scales for the minutes and hours.
All of these elements are now back in a modernized model, the Omega CK 859 Re-Edition. A numbered edition, it isn’t part of any of the classic collections and falls into the Specialities range of models. While visually faithful to the original watch, Omega has decided to give this watch a slight contemporary edge – be reassured, it’s very well controlled. The case, with its brushed central part and polished flat bezel, measures a compact 39mm in diameter. It is topped by a box-shaped sapphire crystal and worn on a vintage-style light brown leather strap.
The dial of this Omega CK 859 Re-Edition is, as often with the brand, using rather unique materials. Here, the choice has been made to use solid Ag925 silver, which will certainly give this watch a certain shine and brightness in the metal. The layout and design are entirely respectful of the original model, with a central sector and scales printed in dark blue, and sword hands that are blued. The small second counter is located at 6 o’clock, in a fairly balanced position. The logo uses a period-accurate font and Ω branding. Rather appealing, right?
The backside of the watch is where modernity truly comes into the equation. Under the sapphire caseback is the calibre 8926, which was first used in the De Ville Trésor small seconds. Using the 89xx architecture, it works on 2 barrels with a comfortable 72h power reserve and packs all of Omega’s technologies. It is Master Chronometer certified, it features a silicon balance spring, a co-axial escapement and is highly resistant to magnetic fields. The decoration is typical Omega, with blackened screws and stripes in Arabesque. The layout of the bridges is even quite appealing.
Availability & Price
The Omega CK 859 Re-Edition (reference 5220.127.116.11.99.002) is announced as a numbered edition (understand individually numbered, but not limited). It will be priced at EUR 6,800. Availability in stores hasn’t been revealed yet.
For more details, please visit omegawatches.com.