The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6, a Tantalum Escale with Superb Kari Movement

As we’ve seen with recent initiatives, things are moving fast at Louis Vuitton’s watch division. In addition to the classic collection, with the Tambour, Spin Time and Escale watches, the brand has demonstrated rather impressive expertise in high watchmaking, with its automata and metiers d’art models. But there’s also a strong connection with independent watchmakers, exemplified by the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, or the recent relaunch of the Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth brands. Finally, there are collaborations between Louis Vuitton and some of the most renowned independent watchmakers, a concept that started in late 2023 with the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. It is now time for the second chapter, this time with Finnish-born watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, as LV presents a tantalum/platinum Escale watch powered by a splendid Voutilainen movement, the LVKV-02 GMR 6.

The connection between LV and indies is getting stronger and stronger, fueled by the passion of its director of watches, Jean Arnault, for high-end watches. Kari Voutilainen, who needs no introduction anymore, is one of the most respected and revered indie watchmakers of its generation, started his solo adventure in 2002, the same year Louis Vuitton launched the Tambour watch. Kari Voutilainen is known for its complex and superbly finished watches, mixing traditional horology (direct-impulse escapement, guilloché dial, classic decoration) with signature complications done in low production numbers – well below 100 watches a year. He is also a member of the committee of experts of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, and the proceeds of this collaboration watch between Louis Vuitton and Kari Voutilainen will contribute to supporting indie watchmaking and the Prize itself… The very cause that inspired the “Louis cruises with…” series. And cruising with Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Atelier Akrivia, Louis is now cruising with Kari.

The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6

What are we looking at here…? Well, a watch that mixes elements of both classic Louis Vuitton design elements, with its metier’s d’art expertise, and inside a movement done by Kari Voutilainen. Sound appealing, right? Let’s check this new LVKV-02 GMR 6 in detail.

This Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen being a GMT watch, it was only natural for it to be housed in a case that exudes travel, namely the Escale watch – a name that can be translated as stopover and a watch that has been recently revamped. Based on the design of this renewed collection, the LVKV-02 is housed in a 40.5mm case that’s designed with LV trunks in mind, in particular the lugs, an allusion to the angles and brass brackets found on many Vuitton creations. What’s special about this edition is the combination of materials, as the middle case is done in tantalum – a dark grey, very hard metal – while the bezel, lugs, back and octagonal crown are done in polished 950 platinum. The case is entirely finished by hand, specifically the lugs with polished and satin-finished surfaces, and internal angles, as well as the satin-brushed tantalum case side (requiring 4 hours of hand work).

This travel-oriented Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen measures 12.54mm in thickness, but Kari’s movements have never been known for being the thinnest… As said, the choice of an Escale case was only natural, since this collection created in 2014 was launched as a world-time model, with a dial featuring 24 city locations decorated with miniature-painted colourful flags or blazons, historically used to identify the owners of LV’s trunks. The platinum caseback of the LV x Kari, with a sapphire crystal, is engraved with “Louis cruises with Kari” to recall the collaborative effort behind this watch.

The dial of the LVKV-02 GMR 6 merges the talents of both parties to the game, with classic LV and Kari features. Starting with the periphery of the dial, there’s a circular brushed, dark grey ring with dotted minutes. The, we have a classic LV Escale theme with an hour chapter ring adorned with miniature paintings done by Marysa Bossy, an artisan of La Fabrique des Arts (the metiers d’art workshop of LV). The diamond pattern is done by using 28 different colours – all applied separately by hand – and requires 32 hours of painting and 8 hours of firing. It was done in a style that echoes ancient stained-glass windows, with white gold Roman numerals applied on top, in the classic Voutilainen style.

Then, the central part of the dial is typical Voutilainen. The solid gold base is hand-guilloché by Kari’s workshop with an intricate pattern of scales, using ancient machines controlled by skilled artisans. The Voutilainen workshop is also responsible for the sun and moon disc that serves as a day-and-night indicator on the second time zone sub-dial. It is first hand-engraved and then enamelled using blue and saffron LV colours, with a gradient effect. A closer inspection reveals the concealed shapes of LV’s monogram flower and stylized sun rays. This day-and-night indicator as well as the GMT function with its 24-hour disc is framed by a small seconds track. And a retrograde power reserve indicator can be found on this complex dial too at 12 o’clock – all reminiscent of the Kari Voutilainen GMR watch.

The hands, in blued steel and white gold, are also done by the Voutilainen workshop, with the classic and very appealing open-eye tip, and a new logo has been specifically designed for the occasion – it combines the classic LV logo with the Voutilainen name, the second of the intertwined initials serving as the first letter of Voutilainen.

Haute Horologerie movement by Voutilainen

At the heart of the Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 is a base movement that many will immediately recognize, the classic GMT hand-wound movement of Kari with two direct-impulse escapement wheels, and as you’d expect, a stunningly detailed decoration. The R in the GMR-6 refers to the presence of the power reserve indicator, while the 6 denotes the location of the second time zone sub-dial – as said, this display is a classic of the Voutilainen workshop, mixing elements already seen in Kari’s GMR watch and the GMT-6 model. Its GMT disc rotates in 24 hours and is designed to be set to home time, while the main hour hand indicates the local time. The latter can be adjusted by one-hour increments by pressing the crown, making it a true traveller’s GMT watch.

The movement itself relies on the Twenty-8 architecture, a 30mm hand-wound movement with a large barrel, two direct-impulse escapement wheels in blued steel (for enhanced longevity, stability, efficiency and improved chronometric results), an oversized balance wheel with gold adjustment weights, a balance spring with Phillips terminal curve and Grossmann inner curve and a frequency of 2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour). Comprising 254 components, the LVoutilainen movement is made using German silver for the main plate and bridges, as well as solid gold wheels and is done almost entirely in-house by Voutilainen’s workshop. The movement boasts 65h of power power reserve when fully wound.

The movement is traditionally finished, using Geneva stripes and perlage on the main plate, large anglages done by hand, a rounded black polished balance bridge, and everything else you’d expect from a movement of this level. But then Vuitton adds its touch to the calibre, with the white gold mainspring cover adorned with a multi-coloured miniature painting. Once again, this is done at La Fabrique des Arts, with 27 different paint colours and five kiln sessions.

The final touches

Each of the 5 (yes, only five of these watches will be made) Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 will be delivered with two straps, a grey fabric strap and an anthracite alligator strap, closed by a platinum pin buckle.

The watches will be delivered in a bespoke Louis Vuitton travel trunk, made by hand in the brand’s workshop in Asnières, France. Once the structure is done, with Monogram Eclipse canvas, the tranks are then handed over to specialised artisans who hand-paint the trunks with a design that mirrors the dial of the LV x Kari watch, as well as the signature “Louis cruises with Kari” to seal this collaboration.

The price is EUR 550,000. For more details, please visit louisvuitton.com and voutilainen.ch.