As part of its Baselworld 2017 collection, Jaquet Droz introduced a watch that we reviewed here and that I personally loved and considered one of the most accomplished pieces in the signature “Grande Seconde” collection. Based on the iconic figure 8-shaped dial, the addition of the date and the moon indication gave the watch a lovely complication that did not interfere with the balanced design. As a preview of the upcoming Baselworld watch fair, here is the new Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel.
To make a long story short, most of the watches in Jaquet Droz’ current collection are based on a specific display inspired by the antique pocket watches created by Pierre Jaquet Droz and his son Henry-Louis and sold mainly on the Chinese market. An ode to the past, this eight-shaped figure on the dial has become the cornerstone of the Grande Seconde collection – which is, without a doubt, the most successful and well-known family. Based on an off-centred hours and minutes dial which intersects a small seconds sub-dial, this combination offers multiple possibilities in terms of integrating complications: pointer date, dead-beat second or dual time – all of them can be integrated into the sub-dial of the small seconds counter that is larger than its hours and minutes counterpart.
The 2017 Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon was based on this iconic display and used a combination of a moon phase and a pointer date. Presented in three different versions – steel/opaline dial, steel/black onyx dial and red gold/ivory enamel dial during Baselworld 2017, the collection is now enlarged with the addition of another red gold version, this time with a black Grand Feu enamel dial. Rich, warm and contrasted, it is further enhanced with the cycles of a gold moon.
The beauty of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon comes from its specific layout, where the addition of the moon indication feels natural and balanced. The usually empty sub-seconds dial is used as a playing field for complications, and its circular shape is perfect for an arched moon-phase indication. In the case of this Black Enamel version, the moon disc is in black onyx, with a solid gold engraved moon and stars – a closer look reveals the details.
The moon indication on this Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel is encircled by a gold date display and a seconds track. That’s three indications in one sub-dial, yet all extremely legible and well integrated. The dial itself is crafted in Grand Feu enamel and consists of two parts. Presented here in black, it features a superb glossy surface and a deep, rich black colour that only enamel can conjure. The contrast with the red gold case is superb.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel is available in a large size only – just like its steel siblings – housed in a 43mm x 13.23mm case. Not exactly what you’d call a dress watch, it would be quite difficult though to imagine the moon display in a 38mm case, because it requires some more space. Yet, as usual with Jaquet Droz, the case sits comfortably on the wrist, thanks to the shot and curved lugs. In addition to that, the black dial makes the watch more compact than the white dial versions.
The movement inside is the same as the three previous models, meaning a nicely-finished movement with modern features. This twin-barrel calibre 2660QL3 with automatic winding features a free-sprung balance, a silicon balance spring and silicon pallet horns. It runs at a modern 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and offers a healthy power reserve of 68 hours. It is beautifully finished with Cotes de Genève decorations radiating from the balance wheel and a gold openwork rotor, executed with polished chamfers and frosted surfaces.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel will be officially introduced at Baselworld 2018 and priced at CHF 29,700. More details on www.jaquet-droz.com.