Although Glycine already has a 101 years history (last year they celebrated their 100th anniversary with a limited set of an F104 wrist- and pocket watch), it was probably the Glycine Airman, that set the brand on the map. A true pilot’s watch with a 24-hour dial, that indicates time in three (different) time zones. This year Glycine introduces for the very first time an Airman with a 12-hour dial and 12-hour bezel: the Glycine Airman Double Twelve.
When Glycine introduced the Airman in 1953, it immediately received an enthusiastic welcome. Among collectors the vintage Airmans are sought after pieces, especially the models used by US pilots who served in Vietnam. It is a proper tool watch that, with the help of a rotating 24-hour bezel, and a second 24-hour hand, indicates time in three time zones. All time indications are in a 24-hour display; something that mainly pilots seemed to appreciate. Last year, when the brand celebrated their 100th anniversary they introduced the Airman 1953, a limited edition that was a tribute to the very first Airman.
Even though the Airman is a great looking watch in its own right, you have to be a fan of the 24-hour dial and bezel as it takes quite a bit of time to get used to. If you can’t, it is not going to get much wrist-time.
The big change for this new Airman, the Double Twelve, is the 12-hour scale on the dial and a second 12-hour scale on the bezel, which serves as a second timezone indication. Every Airman before this Double Twelve always had a 24hr scale instead of the more traditional half-a-day display. This makes the watch more ‘accessible’ for everyone who cannot get used to the 24-hour indication. True to form, all the other key features of the Airman are still there like the additional crown at 4 o’clock which is used to lock the bezel in place.
The size of the Double Twelve is quite modest, at 40 mm across, measured without the crowns. At first, three different versions will be available, with a fourth coming later in the year. The extremely legible black version, clear contrast between numerals and dial, comes on a black leather strap. Even though it serves the purpose of a pilot’s watch to the fullest, it might be considered a bit conventional in terms of look.
So, if you’d rather have a bit of colour in your watch, there is also a blue or red ‘degrade’ dial available. These ‘degrade’ dials are slightly darker towards the top, and gradually get lighter towards 6 o’clock. Especially the blue version is a striking combination on the matching blue leather strap it comes on. The fourth model (which will come later) will have a green dial, and also features the ‘degrade-style’ dial. The centrally mounted hours, minutes and seconds hand contrast nicely on all three dials, and are treated with luminous material.
The movement inside of the Glycine Airman Double Twelve is the GL 224, derived from an ETA 2824 automatic movement. Availability for Glycine is not a problem as of yet, but they are already looking to a new supplier due to the ongoing (and already long planned) delivery cutbacks of ETA movements outside of the Swatch Group. The Glycine Airman Double Twelve will be available at a price of $ 1,625 USD.