Monochrome Watches
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Introducing the Calibre de Cartier Diver with Manufacture Caliber 1904MC

| By Frank Geelen | 3 min read |
Calibre de Cartier Diver

Cartier has just unveiled their very first dive watch! OK some of you might argue Cartier already have a “dive watch” in their collection, the Pasha. However the Pasha is not a true dive watch, and certainly not by today’s standards. The new Calibre de Cartier Diver, which will officially be introduced at the SIHH 2014, will be Cartier’s first real dive watch!

Calibre de Cartier Diver

The new Diver is based on the Calibre de Cartier, which was introduced in 2010. This was also the first Cartier to feature the new in-house movement caliber 1904 MC, which is the same movement they use in the new Calibre de Cartier Diver. A robust movement, with two main spring barrels, delivering 48 hours of power reserve. You might think that’s not much for two main spring barrels, however this was done intentionally to get as little fluctuation in the main spring torque as possible, so the chronometric rates are as stable as possible. In laymen language… it’s a very good movement!

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Calibre de Cartier Diver

The Calibre de Cartier Diver meets all official specifications of a dive watch, as fixed in ISO 6425. It has the required unidirectional rotating bezel, is water-resistant to 300 meters and the hands and markers on the bezel have applied superluminova for good legibility in the dark (or when submerged). Also the HUGE Roman 12 and the small off center seconds feature the superluminova for bright night reading of time, AND to see if the watch is still running and to check your dive time (both ISO requirements).

To prevent any accidental rotation or alteration of the dive-time indication, the bezel turns in one direction only. It has been designed with 120 clicks to enable adjustment to a half-minute, with a clear sound signal during its rotation.

When underwater, diver’s watches can be subjected to very high pressures and extreme conditions like salt water, thermal shock, etc. The Calibre de Cartier Diver is fitted with a thick crystal, a solid screw back, oversized seals and a screw-in crown to ensure water-resistance to 300 meters.

Cartier’s style is often described as refined, sometimes even feminine. This new Cartier Diver is everything but refined or feminine, as it’s bold, rugged and masculine. And I’m not only talking about its looks, as it’s a watch that can be used for both everyday wear AND extreme conditions! In order to meet with the requirements of ISO 6425 – norm for “Diver’s Watch” label – it had to go through a series of extremely rigorous tests.

Calibre de Cartier Diver

The bezel is ADLC coated, which is a coating exclusive to Cartier. The case back is closed and engraved with “Diver’s watch 300 m” – this is only allowed when a (dive) watch meets all ISO 6425 criteria.

Some specifications:

  • Case: stainless steel, 42 mm in diameter and 11 mm in height, stainless steel or 18 ct pink gold, sapphire crystal, uni-directional diver’s bezel, solid case back with engraved “Diver’s watch 300 m”
  • Movement: Calibre 1904 MC, Self-winding mechanical movement, in-house developed and manufactured, 48 hours power reserve, 27 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)
  • Comes on a rubber strap with a steel or 18ct pink gold buckle

Calibre de Cartier Diver

Please click through to Troisanneaux (a website dedicated to Cartier timepieces) for more information and some beautiful photos they made of the new Calibre de Cartier Diver -> TROISANNEAUX.COM

3 responses

  1. Well, a watch with a blue cabochon in the crown and fancy roman numerals is quite feminine to me. Honestly, if you show up with this watch at your local dive club, who will take you seriously 🙂

  2. Perfect for piloting the Chris-Craft around Newport harbor, however. Won’t be late for happy hour!

  3. OK, one more. This is the Lamborghini LM 002 of watches. But i like that they tried it.

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