Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches

The Orient Star Avant-Garde Skeleton

The Japanese brand’s Sports Collection gets a skeletonised dial.

| By Rebecca Doulton | 2 min read |

Orient, the Japanese watchmaker founded in 1950 and part of the Seiko Epson Corporation since 2017, is renowned for its affordable in-house mechanical watches. Orient Star, launched a year later, is the higher-end arm of Orient and surprised the market with a skeletonised model in 2016. In a departure from the more classical temperament of the first openworked watch, Orient Star followed up with a contemporary take on skeletonisation in 2022. A year later, Orient Star unveils two new Avant-Garde Skeleton models as part of its Sports Collection with an automatic movement and a 60-hour power reserve.

Available in stainless steel or black-plated steel, the new Avant-Garde Skeletons have a diameter of 42.3mm and a thickness of 12.4mm. Larger than the Contemporary Skeleton, the models offer an increased water resistance of 100m and a sportier personality thanks to the bezel with hexagonal screws. The steel model reveals a combination of brushed surfaces with Sallaz mirror finishings (comparable to Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing), adding accents and emphasising the solid metallic feel of the watch and bracelet.

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Composed of two layers, the upper and lower plates of the dial are distinguished by different colours and finishings. The upper plate bears the luminous indices that project over the movement, and the lower plate is designed to protect the upper plate from shocks and deformation. Like the earlier model, the dial features a power reserve indicator at noon, a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and a view of the balance wheel with its silicon escapement. The hour and minute hands are also wider, sportier, and treated with luminous material.

Powering the Orient Star Avant-Garde Skeleton is the automatic, in-house calibre F8F64. Decorated with Geneva stripes, the partially openworked base plate reveals the bright blue silicon escapement peeking out just to the left of the small seconds. Rated at +15/-5 seconds per day, beating standard ETA and Sellita counterparts, the movement has 24 jewels, beats at 21,600vph (3Hz) and delivers a 60-hour power reserve. The stainless steel model comes with a steel bracelet; the black-coated steel watch on a black Cordura Ballistic nylon strap. The retail price is EUR 2,000.

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1 response

  1. Avant garde? Who are they trying to fool? This watch being 2k is the same as sneakers that are made in China going for $300. At this price point there’s just way to many options then to buy this as your timepiece.I’d say $500-1000 is fair for this and no more then that.

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