The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies in the Face of Convention
Reversing time onboard the Santos-Dumont with hands that turn counterclockwise.
Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, and Louis Cartier shared a passion for machines and mechanics. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented Santos-Dumont with the first purpose-designed wristwatch with a solid, rounded square case and rivets on the bezel. The idea behind the watch was to allow Santos-Dumont to consult the time in the cockpit without having to remove his hands from the controls. Little did either of these forward-thinking gentlemen suspect that this wristwatch would become one of the most popular and enduring Cartier icons of all time. For 2024, Cartier proposes a rather unusual model, the Santos-Dumont Rewind, that literally flies in the face of tradition.
At first glance, the watch appears to be a classic Santos-Dumont with a lovely carnelian dial, Roman numerals, a ruby cabochon in the crown and the signature railway minutes track. Although the XII and VI are in their usual positions, the rest of the numbers are reversed, meaning that time is read backwards, not forwards. Whether this is Cartier’s idea of flying back in time to honour the Brazilian aviator or just a bit of a mind-bending whimsy, it will certainly get noticed.
Presented in a platinum case with a diameter of 31.5mm, a length of 43.5mm and a height of just 7.3mm, this elegant dress watch highlights its sleek geometry with brushed and polished finishings. The signature square bezel with rounded edges and eight screws is polished, while the case middle with its streamlined groove is brushed. The beaded crown is polished and set with a bright red ruby to match the carnelian dial, a semi-precious stone with a muted red colour.
As mentioned, the Roman numerals XII and VI occupy their conventional position, but the rest are inverted and indicated by open-tipped hands. The 230 MC calibre is a modified version of the 430 MC, allowing the hands to turn counterclockwise. The calibre is, in turn, a Cartier-branded version of Piaget’s ultra-thin, manual-winding 430P calibre for the hours and minutes. With a height of just 2.15mm, the movement runs at a frequency of 21,600vph and has a relatively short power reserve of 38 hours.
The Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind is matched with a semi-matte brown alligator strap and a platinum ardillon buckle. It is a limited edition of 200 numbered pieces and comes in a special lacquered wooden box. The price will be CHF 37,000. More details at cartier.com.