The Handsome Moritz Grossmann 37 Arabic Vintage

As one of the most important advocates of high-end German watchmaking – which feels relevant considering the importance of the brand’s name, being the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking – Moritz Grossmann has long demonstrated its ability to create technically advanced watches. And in recent years, we’ve also witnessed the creation of splendid dials, done the traditional way. Following several watches with the brand’s superbly carved Arabic numerals over tremblage or frosted dials, it’s time to see this style adapted to a new compact, surprisingly sporty (relatively speaking) steel watch, with the new Moritz Grossmann 37 Arabic Vintage. 

This new model is presented in a way that combines surprisingly casual elements – the case – with the beauty of traditional watchmaking done by hand – the dial and the movement. As such, it is housed in a case that’s done in a rather universal diameter of 37mm, with a very reasonable height of 9.2mm (which isn’t bad considering that Grossmann relies on pillar movements). The case is made of stainless steel and comes with satin-finished surfaces all around, for a matte and discreet look. Sapphire crystals sit on both sides, together with the brand’s classic conical crown.

As often with Moritz Grossmann, the dial is the centre of attention and this Benu 37 Arabic Vintage is no exception to the rule. Here, we have an anthracite-coloured dial which is made from untreated German silver, with matt, velvety hue shimmers in a variety of shades of grey, an effect created by the deep engraving on the dial, or, to be more precise, the black engraving. This involves the surface being thermally treated, giving the untreated German silver an almost grainy structure and a dark hue that dampens the incident light – just like velvet fabric, whose fibres scatter reflections and can look lighter or darker from different angles.

On this dial, this gives rise to a perfect background for the raised numerals, scales and historic Grossmann logo. The numerals are particularly appealing, as we’ve seen on multiple previous models such as the Moritz Grossmann Tremblage, or the compact Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction. All the raised elements have a fine brushed finish on top, accentuating the contrast with the velvety black background. Thin, elegantly shaped polished steel hands indicate the time with central hours and minutes, and a small seconds at 6 o’clock. As always with the brand, these hands are done by hand and worthy of taking a loupe to observe them.

Under the sapphire caseback is the in-house calibre 102.1, shared with the Tefnut watch. This slightly more compact movement, meant to be used in smaller watches, retains most of the attributes you expect from a German calibre, with a pillar construction, a 3/5 plate and parts made from untreated German silver. Quite thin, at 4mm in height, it is equipped with a balance with inertia and poising screws and a flat balance spring, running at a 3Hz frequency. The power reserve is rated at 48 hours. The decoration is extremely pleasant and traditional, with large ribbings, gold chatons with blued screws and a hand-engraved balance cock.

Worn on a casual brown strap made from Kudu leather, the new and surprisingly vintage-looking Moritz Grossmann 37 Arabic Vintage is released as a non-limited edition, available from the brand’s online boutique. It will be priced at EUR 33,400 (excl. taxes) or EUR 39,700 (incl. taxes). For more details, please visit grossmann-uhren.com.