Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches

The New Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction

The allure of the new watch is undeniable despite the weird-sounding, though very accurate, model name.

| By Denis Peshkov | 2 min read |

Born in 1826 in Dresden, Germany, Karl Moritz Grossmann established his watchmaking company in Glashütte in 1854, contributing significantly to the German watch industry’s development. After his demise in 1885, the company ceased production, marking the end of its initial chapter. In 2008, Christine Hutter, a trained watchmaker and former Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne employee, revived Moritz Grossmann to honour its heritage. Today, Moritz Grossmann reveals a new model in rose gold and steel, the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, destined to become a staple in the Tefnut collection.

Since its revival, Moritz Grossmann has earned recognition for crafting exceptional, limited-quantity timepieces. The brand’s modern designs seamlessly blend innovation with classic Grossmann elements, reflecting its founder’s legacy. One of the core collections, the Tefnut, has been presented as both men’s and women’s watches, including this Tefnut 39mm watch, playing on classic dress watch codes. This new iteration is named the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, which sounds a bit weird but explains exactly what it is all about; a silver dial plated by applying friction.

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The aesthetics of the Tefnut Silver-Plated bear a resemblance to the Hamatic Vintage Silver-Plated from 2021. The attention is drawn to the exquisite dial, crafted using a traditional 19th-century technique. Grossmann artisans rub a mix of silver powder, salt, and cream of tartar (a byproduct of wine-making, dry, powder-like, acidic sediment that is left behind during fermentation, not to be confused with baking soda) onto a blank base until the dial exhibits a fine grainy texture. Contrasting Arabic numerals, minute/second tracks and the historic M. Grossmann logo are engraved and set in black lacquer, creating a striking visual against the silver-plated dial. The manually crafted steel hands, annealed over a flame to a distinct brown-violet hue, indicate the hours and minutes, as well as the running seconds on the recessed dial at 6 o’clock.

The 39mm three-part case, with a modest 8.5mm height and slim lugs, and the crown embellished with grooves, exudes elegance and comfort. The rose gold and stainless steel cases are complemented by distinctively crafted hands and contrasting elements on the dial. The hand-wound calibre 12.01 with 48 hours of power reserve, visible through the display caseback, showcases Grossmann’s distinctive features, from the engraved, stepped balance cock to the Glashütte ribbing on the plates. Note the white sapphires set in gold chatons and held by brown-violet screws that add technical and aesthetic flair.

The Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction rose gold variant is paired with a brown alligator leather strap, and the stainless steel version is worn on a black alligator leather strap; straps are closed with a prong buckle matching the case material. The Tefnut Silver-Plated Rose Gold is priced at EUR 36,300 (without VAT), and Tefnut Silver-Plated Stainless Steel will cost you EUR 25,400 (without VAT).

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