German high-end watch manufacturer Moritz Grossmann is revered for its clean and delicate style of watchmaking, although it can get very creative from time to time. The quality is absolutely stunning, with incredible attention to detail and a real passion for traditional craftsmanship. The brand also isn’t afraid to tread off the beaten path now and then, with clever and surprising technical solutions. This year the Manufacture is celebrating its 14th anniversary and does so in real style. The Moritz Grossmann Hamatic Vintage Cream uses a true highlight of the brand’s collection, the complex and unique Hamatic, and turns it into a true stunner inside and out.
At first glance, the Hamatic is typical of the style of Moritz Grossmann, both in looks and mechanicals. It perfectly fits in with the design ethos of watchmaking coming from the Glashütte region, where the brand is headquartered. However, when turned around, the Hamatic reveals its stunningly complex and ‘modern old-school’ self-winding hammer-type movement. The movement is an ode to very early self-winding mechanical movements that relied on a pendulum- or hammer-type system by the likes of Abraham-Louis Breguet and Hubert Sarton that pre-date the typical central rotors we are so accustomed to by centuries. And it really is the only one of its kind available on the market we know of, that uses this very system. We’ve covered the concept of the movement inside the Hamatic extensively, and you can check it out here.
Where you would normally find a central or micro-rotor driving an automatic mechanical movement, the Calibre 106.0 relies on a hammer suspended on a pivot point that swings back and forth. in comparison to a central rotor, the efficiency is virtually the same thanks to the double distance of the swinging arm between the pivot and mass. The movement is constructed using 312 parts, all finished to perfection. It runs at a frequency of 21,600vph and comes with 72 hours of power reserve. It includes elements like the Grossmann balance spring, German Silver plates and bridges, engraved balance cock and heat-annealed violet screws.
Now that the mechanical side is covered, let’s move to the habillage of the Hamatic Vintage Cream. The three-part case is made in 18k white gold, with a delicate polished finish. It measures 41mm in diameter and 11.35mm in height. The traditional crown (so not the system with the extra pusher) sits at 3 o’clock and has knurled exterior for some extra grip and ease of use. A very slim bezel embraces the sapphire crystal on the front, with a second sapphire crystal covering the movement on the reverse side.
Other than its movements, Moritz Grossmann excels in making beautiful dials and reaffirms that with this Hamatic Vintage Cream. The biggest clue is in the name of the watch, as it comes with a very lovely off-white creamy-coloured dial made of solid silver. The Vintage labelled watches by Moritz Grossmann are all finished with delicate Roman numerals and a vintage font for the logo. A classical railroad-style minute track runs along the outer perimeter of the dial. The handcrafted and heat-annealed violet hands, a signature styling cue of the brand, are matched in tone by the numerals and markings on the dial. The small seconds subdial is slightly recessed and has a violet one-minute scale as well.
The Moritz Grossmann Hamatic Vintage Cream comes on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap with a white gold pin buckle. It is a limited edition of 25 pieces only, a bit more than the 8 white gold and 8 rose gold Hamatics with silver friction-plated dial released last year. The price is set at EUR 45,700 including taxes, which would buy you a gorgeous dress watch with an absolutely amazing-looking movement!
For more information, please visit Grossmann-Uhren.com