The New Bulgari Serpenti Pallini Trilogy of High-Jewellery Watches

It’s fair to say that Bulgari’s ultra-thin Octo Finissimo watches have stolen the limelight for the past decade. However, Bulgari’s laurels have rested for decades on its fabulous and creative high-jewellery watches, spearheaded by the brand’s mascot, the Serpenti. Decked with fabulous gemstones, flexible Tubogas straps or whirling with tourbillons, Bulgari’s Serpenti has countless guises. A new trilogy of Serpenti Pallini jewellery watches powered by Bulgari’s miniature Piccolissimo calibre form part of the brand’s novelties unveiled during Geneva Watch Days. Bulgari’s theme this year is sound, and the rare en tremblant setting of the tiny gold beads and diamonds that quiver with the slightest movement generate tiny vibrations.

Bulgari’s first Serpenti watch appeared in the late 1940s with a tubular coiling Tubogas bracelet. From the mid-1950s on, the Serpenti took on more realistic features, and the dial was hidden under a hinged cover on the snake’s head. The muse for the latest trilogy is a 1955 Serpenti five-turn bracelet watch with thousands of tiny yellow gold beads (pallini) interspersed with diamonds and a platinum diamond-encrusted head with emerald eyes.

Coiling twice around the wrist, the scales of the three Serpenti Pallini are composed of countless small gold beads or brilliant-cut diamonds, each individually set on a gold mesh using a technique derived from the en tremblant method. Invented in France in the 18^th century, jewellers attached gemstones to a thin wire-coiled spring so that it would tremble with the wearer’s movements. Bulgari adopted and perfected the en tremblant technique in the 1950s and 1960s for its floral sprays and brooches, adding movement to its fantastic compositions.

Powered by the miniature marvel known as the Piccolissimo, the smallest round mechanical movement ever created and produced in Bulgari’s manufacture in Le Sentier, the calibre has a thickness of just 2.55mm, weighs 1.30 grams, beats at 21,600vph and can store up to 30 hours of power reserve. The calibre and dial can also be swivelled by half a turn to allow the watch to be worn on either wrist.

Serpenti Pallini (104027)

This model features a yellow gold articulated bracelet with yellow gold pallini beads quivering along its coils. Marking the first contemporary interpretation of the Serpenti Pallini in yellow gold, the distinctive glow of yellow gold gives it a slightly vintage spirit. The white gold tapering tail is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, and the diamond-set head with two pear-shaped emerald eyes opens to reveal the dial. Graced with a mother-of-pearl background and diamond indices, the hands of the dial are green to match the eyes.

Quick facts: white and yellow gold set with 7.58 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds – pear-cut emerald eyes, mother-of-pearl dial, diamond indices, green hands – Piccolissimo BVL100 manual-winding micro movement, 30h power reserve – ref. 104027 – EUR 256,000

Serpenti Pallini (104026)

Moving up the carat count, the rose gold pallini of this Serpenti are interspersed with brilliant-cut diamonds. Furthermore, the tapering white gold diamond-set tail and the head of the snake are surmounted by large diamonds. Pear-cut emerald eyes and a pavé-set diamond dial and mouth cavity add more radiance to the secret watch.

Quick facts: white and rose gold set with 24.44 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds – pear-cut emerald eyes, pavé-set dial (0.28 ct), green hands – Piccolissimo BVL100 manual-winding micro movement, 30h power reserve – ref. 104026 – EUR 464,000

Serpenti Pallini (104025)

This sparkling high jewellery model is crafted entirely in white gold with 66.31 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds, including the diamond pallini representing the scales that quiver with the slightest motion. Like the other two snakes, the glowing green eyes are pear-cut emeralds, and larger diamonds are set on the tail and crest of the snake’s head.

Quick facts: white gold set with 66.31 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds – pear-shaped emerald eyes, pavé-set dial (0.28 ct), green hands – Piccolissimo BVL100 manual-winding micro movement, 30h power reserve – ref. 104025 – EUR 708,000

For more information, please consult bulgari.com.