Indie Watchmaker Alexandre Martin Launches his Debut Watch, the Superb 1965

There is currently a real wave of new, young independent watchmakers launching their own brand, and we are always delighted to showcase their work at MONOCHROME. One of the latest among them is Alexandre Martin, a 28-year-old Belgian who has just opened his workshop in Morges, Switzerland, near Lausanne. Named “1965” after the birth year of his father, his superb debut timepiece is an elegant three-hand watch… created by a watchmaker whose ambition, from the very start, was to specialise in complications.

A long-time Passion for Watchmaking

Alexandre Martin developed a passion for watchmaking at just 12 years old. His father being a restorer of antique furniture, he was immersed in an environment where skilled craftsmanship was valued. This culture of artisanship led him to study at the IATA school in Namur. It was there that his passion for watchmaking was born. Early in his apprenticeship, a clear ambition took shape: to become a watchmaker specialising in complications.

Determined to achieve this goal, alongside his formal training, he restored watches independently to earn extra money, buy tools and hone his skills. Upon graduating, he packed his bags and headed to Switzerland, resolved to become a specialist in complications. This ambition was far from easy to realise. Career paths within manufactures are highly structured, requiring years of experience before one is entrusted with complications. Yet, Alexandre Martin was eager to fast-track his journey. He knocked on many doors and naturally faced numerous rejections, until the late Pierre Favre of MHC gave him his chance… Following MHC’s bankruptcy, Alexandre continued his career at Greubel Forsey, where he had the opportunity to work on the Hand-Made project. He then joined Petermann Bédat, where he worked on the production of the split-seconds chronograph.

From complications specialist to independent watchmaker

Alexandre Martin always had the ambition of creating his own brand. This is now taking shape with the unveiling of the 1965, an elegant three-hand watch – like many young indie watchmakers recently. Creating a fine dress watch is not an easy task, and it is rather unexpected from a watchmaker who had guided his career with the ambition to work on complications. Yet, the result is really worth a close look. To launch his brand, Alexandre Martin did not want to follow the approach taken by many independent watchmakers starting: presenting a design, opening pre-orders, finding buyers, and only then developing and executing the project. In other words, selling a “subscription” watch that does not exist yet. Instead, he wanted to present something tangible – a watch in which he could place absolute confidence.

For this reason, he chose not to immediately embark on developing an entirely new movement but rather to start with an existing proven base, the CYMA 586 that was adapted, keeping the mainplate and gear train – though these were beautifully refinished and modified. Other components such as the bridges were manufactured specifically. The balance wheel and its Breguet hairspring were also remade, as was the click mechanism, which now features a mobile system.

The overall execution is superb, reflecting a meticulous attention to detail. Features include a hand-brushed grained finish and bridges with beautiful beveling and inward angles. For the prototype, Alexandre Martin started with a vintage CYMA movement. For commercial production, however, the entire assembly will be newly manufactured. Notably, this will provide the opportunity to rework the barrel and increase its power reserve, in order to exceed the 36 hours of the original CYMA 586.

An understated, contemporary aesthetic

This beautiful handwound movement is housed in an elegant round steel case measuring 38 mm in diameter and just 9.35 mm in thickness. The dial is executed with equal care. It comprises three sections. The well-proportioned small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock is crafted from enamel and is produced in Anita Porchet’s workshops.

The understated Alexandre Martin 1965 certainly adopts certain design codes of contemporary independent watchmaking. As such, it possesses a modern feel and details that enthusiasts of independent watchmaking will instantly recognise. Yet, everything is nicely executed, and the watch has a distinct personality. Alexandre also explains that every detail of the watch holds significance, in particular in relation to his other passion, the mountains and activities like paragliding. This is the inspiration behind the design of the white gold hour markers, which appear suspended above the dial, creating the impression that they are floating. The beautiful hand-polished steel hands are also inspired by high mountain gear.

An initial limited series of 12 pieces

The Alexandre Martin 1965 will be released in steel as a limited series of 12 pieces, priced at CHF 65,000 and whose delivery should be complete within about 18 months. It should be followed by 2 other limited editions of 12 in platinum and pink gold. For more details, please visit www.instagram.com/alexandre.martin.watches.