Hublot Returns to Its Roots with the Classic Fusion Tributo (Incl. Video)

Before the Big Bang exploded on the watch scene in 2005, Carlo Crocco had already set the wheels of Hublot’s universe in motion. His 1980 watch, with its unorthodox mix of gold and rubber, introduced the Art of Fusion that would later become the brand’s calling card. Returning to the source, the Classic Fusion Tributo distils 46 years of expertise into two gold references that preserve the original’s sleek, pared-back looks, but replace its quartz engine with an automatic calibre by Zenith.

The Origin Story

Although the luxury sports watch was an established category in the 1980s and rubber was used on accessible sports watches – think Swatch – Carlo Crocco’s idea of mixing gold and rubber was highly unconventional. As Crocco explains in our exclusive video coverage, his MDM brand (Marie Danielle Montres) had a very elegant gold watch with 12 screws on the bezel, but he wanted a sportier, more versatile version. Crocco assembled a small team, including Italian designer Francesco Maria Vimercati and Swiss case manufacturer Eric Bonnet, to bring his vision to life: a watch that combined traditional Swiss savoir-faire with Italian design.

During a brainstorming session, the subject of rubber was brought up, and Crocco warmed immediately to the idea. Elegant yet practical, the black rubber strap paired beautifully with the gold case, adding an unexpected yet surprisingly sensuous dimension to the composition. However, because rubber manufacturers weren’t used to working on small-scale projects with tight tolerances, Crocco enlisted engineer Guido Gamberini, who spent two years perfecting the strap. Finally, in 1980, the watch was ready and, as Crocco admits, “it shocked the industry. The professionals didn’t understand; they thought I was crazy.”

Presented at the Basel Fair under the MDM Genève name, Crocco’s luxury sports watch with 12 exposed screws on the bezel was christened Hublot, after the French word for porthole. Presented in a slim 36mm yellow gold case with brushed and polished finishes, it featured a complex case construction, 12 screws on the bezel in place of conventional hour markers, and an integrated black rubber strap with a well-hidden double-blade deployant clasp.

The minimalist black dial, with a date window at 3 o’clock, offered little distraction from the unconventional contrast between the precious metal case and the black natural rubber strap. Powered by quartz and conceived for everyday wear, the original was a highly original, design-led take on the luxury sports watch. Often referred to as “La Hublot”, it proved so successful that the watch’s name eventually became the brand’s name. It was, as Crocco recalls, “the right moment, the right product.”

A Closer Return to the Original

As fans of the brand know, Hublot has already revisited Crocco’s foundation watch with several models in its Classic Fusion family. We’ve seen the 40th-anniversary collection in 45mm cases with more angular lines and just six screws in the bezel, and the 2023 Classic Fusion Original in 42mm and 38mm cases, all powered by Sellita automatics.

The new Classic Fusion Tributo moves closer to Crocco’s original design, restoring the 12-screw bezel and recreating the sensuous tension of solid gold and sleek black rubber that have characterised the watch since its debut. Offered in 18k yellow or white gold, the case is 2mm larger than the quartz-powered original, with a 38mm diameter.

The yellow gold reference provides the most direct link to Crocco’s watch. Its polished and satin-finished case and bezel frame a matte black lacquered dial with the gold pad-printed MDM signature and the date aperture at 3 o’clock. Flanking it is a cooler white gold model with a profusion of brightly polished surfaces and 12 black-plated titanium screws in the bezel. Its polished black onyx dial introduces a different texture to the familiar composition. The silver MDM signature at 6 o’clock reinforces the connection to Hublot’s early days.

46 Years of Evolution

However, 46 years of evolution have left their mark. Fitted with a larger screw-down crown, the case can now handle depths of 100 metres and the 12 screws on the bezel, retaining their original function as hour markers, are domed like the original but feature the brand’s signature H-shaped polished titanium screws – the same shape featured on the counterweight of the central seconds hand.

As mentioned, the Tributo is powered by an automatic manufacture movement, calibre HUB1711, produced by sister brand Zenith with a 4Hz frequency and an extended 60-hour power reserve – it is based on the Elite 670 calibre. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the openworked H-shaped rotor is made of 22k yellow gold in the yellow gold model and black tungsten in the white gold version.

Notably, the watch does not feature the One Click strap-changing system, a deliberate omission that keeps the construction closer to the original. While 46 years in the broader watch landscape is considered young, Crocco’s design has proven its staying power. The watch, as Crocco proudly admits, “may not be eternal, but it’s pretty close!”

Main dans la Main (MDM) Foundation

Crocco sold the company to LVMH in 2008 and now dedicates his time to his Fondazione Main dans la Main, a philanthropic organisation established in 1998 which supports humanitarian and educational projects for vulnerable children and communities. Hublot’s CEO Julian Tornare recently reconnected with the “spiritual grandfather” of the brand as a consultant on the new Tributo models. As a gesture to Crocco’s invaluable input, Hublot will donate CHF 100,000 to his MDM foundation.

Price & Availability

The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo is available at selected Hublot points of sale and online, priced at CHF 25,000, EUR 30,200, USD 30,900 or GBP 23,600 for either version. It is not limited and will surely set the base for future editions in more accessible metals. More information at hublot.com.