Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325, Tribute to the First Manual-Winding 9S Model
Bringing back the spirit of the SBGW003, born 25 years ago.
Some watches have shaped the perception we have of a brand in a striking way. At Grand Seiko, if we look at more recent times, the Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211 is one of these watches. Some, however, did this in a far more discreet way, but nevertheless helped write the story. You can think of the Elegance GMT SBGM221, or the Hand-Wound SBGW231. The latter, a discreet watch that our founder Frank named “the Japanese Calatrava”, is the one that we all have in mind, but it wasn’t the first of its kind. This role was given to the SBGW003, a watch born in 2001, as the first manual-winding 9S model. This year, Grand Seiko is paying tribute to this important model by releasing the SBGW325, a limited edition with the same Arabic numerals.
The SBGW003 is historically relevant mostly because of what ticks inside its case. Indeed, it was equipped with the calibre 9S54, the first hand-wound in-house movement from the modern return of Grand Seiko – a movement that served as a base for the calibre that we now see in the brand’s current collection, the 9S64, which upgraded the power reserve from 50 to 72 hours, among other evolutions. The SBGW003 was itself a tribute to the past in terms of design, looking back at the brand’s 1960s collection, and it was part of a series of watches that re-established Grand Seiko’s identity for a more global audience. Design was, it was more subtle and more elegant than most GS models based on the Grammar of Design. And what’s even more interesting is that its case and overall design are still alive at Grand Seiko, with the SBGW301 or the SBGW305.
Relying on the same proportions and case design, the new Grand Seiko Elegance Manual-Winding SBGW325 reintroduces the dial layout of the original SBGW003. As such, it retains the same 37.3mm diameter and a soft, restrained polished stainless steel case that’s shared with the SBGW301 and the SBGW305. The thickness is 11.7mm, lug-to-lug is measured at a compact 44.3 mm, and the dial is protected by a box-shaped sapphire crystal. The caseback, secured by 6 screws, reveals the movement and water-resistance is rated at a slightly disappointing “splash-resistant” level.
The main interest today with the SBGW325 is the dial. While the base is now deep navy coloured, a tone inspired by Japan’s traditional indigo-dyeing, the dial brings back the boldly raised hour markers that were found on the SBGW003. Here, instead of being gold-coloured, the Arabic numerals are silver-toned and paired with Dauphine hands. A touch of gold is found on the seconds hand and the applied GS logo. And no, the dial is not double-signed Seiko…
Inside the case is the calibre 9S64, the direct descendant of GS’ first manual-winding 9S movement, the calibre 9S54. While these two are related when it comes to the overall architecture, the 9S64 benefits from a longer power reserve (3 days or 72 hours) and has an accuracy rating of +5 to -3 seconds per day. The back reveals a nicely decorated engine with stripes and a concave barrel cover.
The limited edition SBGW325 is delivered with two leather straps, both equipped with quick-release spring bars: a hand-dyed blue crocodile strap and a more casual light grey cow leather strap, giving you either a tone-on-tone or nicely contrasted look.
Released as a limited edition of 600 pieces, available from October 2026 at Grand Seiko Boutiques, the new Elegance Manual-Winding SBGW325 will be priced at EUR 5,700 or USD 5,800. For more details, please visit www.grand-seiko.com.
