The Laureato, since its introduction at the SIHH 2017, has been a great success for Girard-Perregaux and had allowed it to get back into the ultra-competitive and oh-so-trendy market of the luxury sports watch. Already existing in an array of models (3-hand, chronograph, tourbillon, skeleton, full ceramic), the brand continues the expansion of this collection by now looking at traditional complications. As a preview of what is to come at the SIHH 2019, meet the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Perpetual Calendar, in sporty steel attire.
This watch is clearly intended to compete with the AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and the PP Nautilus 5740G. However, as with the rest of the Laureato collection, this new Perpetual Calendar version is a slightly more “accessible” offering (relatively speaking, of course). That doesn’t mean shortcuts either, as the movement in this watch has great arguments and the design, thanks to an original display, makes a statement.
As for the habillage of this Girard-Perregaux Laureato Perpetual Calendar, no big surprises. The basics of the Laureato are still present, meaning a 42mm x 11.84mm tonneau case with a bezel mixing octagonal and round shapes – all of that reminiscent of the original 1970s Laureato watch. The integrated bracelet is also part of the package. Both alternate with polished and satin-brushed surfaces. Surprisingly for such a complex watch, the case remains crafted in stainless steel, though this is in line with the original concept of the luxury sports watch. As of now, this is the only combination available, even though we can imagine this watch will later be offered in gold, in two-tone (titanium/gold) and with leather strap options.
The dial also sticks to the usual codes of the collection. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Perpetual Calendar is now presented with a blue dial – and again, other variations might be introduced down the line. The dial relies on the same “Clou de Paris” pattern found on all the Laureato models and shows tone-on-tone blued steel indexes and hands – both filled with luminous paint. Several touches of red (leap year hand, 1st day of the month and the indicator for the current month) give the watch an extra twist.
What’s new then on this Girard-Perregaux Laureato Perpetual Calendar? For this watch, Girard-Perregaux has been using familiar mechanics, for both the QP module and the base movement – the latter being the classic automatic calibre GP01800, used to power the automatic 3-hand, the skeleton model or even the chronograph module. This movement is rather large and powerful, with 54 hours of power reserve. It is visible through the caseback and shows a pleasant decoration as well as a proven reliability.
To display the calendar indications, GP has equipped its Laureato Perpetual Calendar with the module introduced on the 1966 Perpetual Calendar new generation (launched in 2017). This module is clever, simple and protected. No recessed pushers in the caseband here but instead a single push button, located at 8 o’clock, which controls the day cycle. The setting of the date, month and type of year (leap or non-leap year) is directly accessible by the crown and operates in both directions. This module derived from the already known Annual Calendar display and relies on compliant mechanisms to allow these easy operations.
Surprisingly, while the display might look too original for the elegant 1966, in this case, it makes much more sense. Nothing is located where it usually is – day at 9 o’clock, date at 2 o’clock, month at 5 o’clock, leap year at 6 o’clock – but that gives a true personality to this watch (instead of relying on the usual Dubois Depraz module with classic sub-dials). This lack of balance in the display is very pleasant in this luxury sports watch context – and this is also what made the PP Nautilus 5712 so successful.
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Perpetual Calendar will be officially introduced at the SIHH 2019. Availability isn’t confirmed yet but the price is already announced at CHF 34,500. More details on www.girard-perregaux.com.