Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
Women’s Watch Wednesday

The Gimbutis Avantgarde Pinecone Skeleton White Gold

Inspired by the pine cone and its intricately scaled structure.

| By Xavier Markl | 2 min read |

Our environment can give birth to fascinating concepts, and designers have been inspired by nature for centuries. This is also the case for the Signature design of Gimbutis (a jewellery/watch brand founded by Romas Gimbutis). It is inspired by the pine cone that, like many plants, illustrates the Fibonacci sequence or golden ratio in its structure. Curvy lines and three-dimensional seed scale patterns combine to create a modern, non-conformist artistic expression. Building on the success of the brand’s pinecone jewellery, Gimbutis has now launched a selection of watches and today we are taking a look at the Avantgarde Pinecone Skeleton in white gold.

The first thing to grab your attention with the Gimbutis Avantgarde is its extroverted, non-conformist design. Subconsciously symmetric and organic, its tonneau shape case stands out with soft curves, dramatic arcs, and, most importantly, a distinctive three-dimensional surface inspired by the pine cone seed scale. Measuring 42.65mm x 38.38mm, the case is fashioned in 18k white gold. Thanks to the overall ergonomic case, the watch wears smaller than its dimensions would suggest and sits beautifully on the wrist. The water resistance is rated 3ATM.

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This singular case houses an equally expressive skeleton movement that reveals its inner workings in transparency and whose architecture is graced by the depth of volume as well as contrasting materials and finishes. The rigorous and sensual rhythm of the curves of the watch face forms a mechanical lace motif with concentric circles; designs which can be appreciated in the balance wheel and the two barrels visible through a filigree-like motif, once again inspired by the pinecone. The dauphine-style hands for the hours and minutes are filled with luminescent material for easier reading in the dark.

To create the architectural openworked movement of the Avantgarde Pinecone Skeleton, Gimbutis joined forces with Telos, a high-grade, niche movement designer/producer based in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The company was founded by Frank Orny and Johnny Girardin, the men behind the Harry Winston Opus 14, the Metamorphosis for Montblanc and the Reservoir jumping hour module – among other projects. Their 231-part self-winding mechanical movement for Gimbutis is performed flawlessly. The openworked calibre RG19 is a movement running at 4 Hz and delivering a comfortable power reserve (72 hours) thanks to its twin barrels. Turning the watch over, the exhibition caseback allows you to discover the other side of the movement and its openworked rotor.

The Gimbutis Avantgarde Pinecone Skeleton white gold is presented on a light blue integrated tapering rubber strap that, together with the curvature of the caseback, ensures a snug fit. It is secured to the wrist by a white gold folding buckle. The model is released in an exclusive limited edition of five pieces only that are ‘handcrafted in Geneva’. All told, the watch is an original statement in craftsmanship and assertive design. The price is set at EUR 39,770.

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2 responses

  1. Hello Xavier, thanks for your review of this watch. It is actually very interesting in its concept and execution, however its case shape and overall feeling strongly reminds a very well known brand. To me, this is a big downside because screams “I would like to, but I can’t afford it” (I am aware that Gimbutis is not the only expensive brand to do so, of course). This said, all my respect to Gimbutis watchmakers.

    Best regards,

  2. I don’t mind an homage watch, at homage price , this has too much RM design. Take a chance on yourself, get a designer and see what happens ? Maybe people would be glad to pay 40k ?

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