Hand-Hammered Dials for the Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition

Gerald Charles, a brand founded by the late watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000 and backed by the Italian Zivani family, was revived by Federico Zivani after the designer’s death and reappeared in 2020 with an idiosyncratic Genta design from 2006. Known as the Maestro, the asymmetric baroque-style case is the backbone of the brand. Revisited in different guises, it appeared as the Masterlink, a luxury sports watch with an asymmetric, integrated bracelet. Returning during Geneva Watch Days, the new Masterlink Atelier Edition features an artisanal, hand-hammered dial and, as its name suggests, is limited to 25 pieces each in either of the three tonalities.

In deference to the legendary designer Gérald Genta, who championed steel as a noble material, the metal selected for the Masterlink collection could only be stainless steel. Based on a square 38mm x 38mm foundation, the Masterlink case retains the iconic curvy architecture of the Maestro on the bezel and outer case edges. In keeping with luxury sports watch mandates, the profile is slim with a case height of 7.99mm, while a screw-down crown ensures the 100m depth rating.

To create an integrated bracelet, designers had to contend with the bezel’s distinctive curve at 6 o’clock. The answer was an asymmetric bracelet respecting the anatomy of the case. The bottom bracelet links imitate the wavy ‘smile’ and gradually straighten out while the top links emulate the straight edge of the bezel. With no visible screws and a concealed butterfly clasp, the case has an elegant, streamlined profile.

Not quite as lavish as the solid gold hand-hammered dial created for the Maestro Roman Tourbillon, the hand-hammered dials of the Masterlink are executed by artisans in the brand’s Geneva atelier using maillechort, a high-grade alloy composed of copper, nickel and zinc, aka German silver. Using carefully controlled strikes, the artisan creates a rich, unique surface texture that both scatters and captures light. Available in three tones – golden rose, golden yellow or rhodium – there are no indices to interrupt the surface; the only elements on the dial are the blue baton hour and minute hands (with an inlay of Super-LumiNova) and a Gerald Charles Geneva appliqué at noon.

Developed exclusively for Gerald Charles in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the ultra-slim 2.67mm automatic GCA 1000  movement with a micro-rotor beats at a frequency of 3Hz. It delivers a power reserve of 50 hours. The price is on request. More information at geraldcharles.com.