Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
Introducing

The New Polished Steel Bezel Versions of the Doxa Sub 200

More choices than ever before flood Doxa’s Sub 200 collection.

| By Rebecca Doulton | 3 min read |

When Doxa entered the dive watch market, it consulted with experts in the field, including Jacques Cousteau, to understand the needs of professional divers. The Sub 300 of 1967 enjoys a special place in the underwater pantheon of iconic divers, but beyond its formidable underwater capabilities, it became instantly recognisable thanks to its bright orange dial. The Sub 200 Collection, introduced in 2019, is the brand’s entry-level 200m water-resistant dive watch with vintage design touches and modern proportions. Embracing colour as one of its hallmark traits, the new references of the Sub 200 lineup Doxa proposes for the summer season come with a choice of eight dial colours, a rubber strap or beads-of-rice bracelet and, what truly matters, new polished steel bezels.

In keeping with the Sub 200’s specifications, the 42mm stainless steel case has a thickness of 13.8mm and a lug-to-lug of 46mm – meaning that it’s fairly larger but wears short. Decorated with brushed surfaces and polished bevels, the screw-down crown and screw-in caseback ensure the 200m depth rating. Fitted with the signature short sweeping lyre lugs that were popular in the 1960s, the classic curvature of the plexiglass used on yesteryear divers is recreated with the domed sapphire crystal, and the profile of the unidirectional dive bezel has an old-school coin edge.

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Choice is the operative word here, and as Doxa points out, the new steel bezel inserts do not replace the bezel inserts protected by a sapphire crystal; instead, they are designed to complement the collection. Compared to the domed and transparent effect produced by the sapphire crystal inserts, the polished steel inserts are flatter, making the watch look slimmer and the dial bigger. With more markings on the scale, the watch looks more technical, adding a professional vibe.

As mentioned, the eight dial colours of the collection – Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), Searambler (silver), Caribbean (navy blue), Aquamarine (turquoise), Divingstar (yellow), Whitepearl (white) and Sea Emerald (green) – are represented here. The only model with a sunray-brushed dial is the Sea Emerald; all the others feature matte dials. As a dive watch, legibility is vital, and the baton indices and central hands are filled with Super-LumiNova. The colour of the minutes track, which varies according to the dial colour, matches the frame of the date window at 3 o’clock and the Doxa and Sub 200 inscriptions.

Powered by a reliable and easy-to-service SW200-1 automatic calibre (clone of the ETA 2824), the movement beats at 4Hz and delivers a somewhat limited 38-hour power reserve. You can choose a classic steel beads-of-rice bracelet or an FKM rubber strap matching the dial colour, both with a folding clasp and diving suit extension. The Sea Emerald breaks rank and can be ordered on a green NATO strap in addition to the steel bracelet. All in all, there are 16 different references, only for these new steel bezel options.

Prices for the Doxa Sub 200 start at CHF 1,050 / EUR 1,100 for models with a rubber strap and increase slightly to CHF 1,090 / EUR 1,150 for the steel bracelet. The Sea Emerald on a NATO strap retails for CHF 920 / EUR 970. Fairly accessible and cool looking. More information at doxawatches.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/doxa-sub-200-polished-steel-bezel-inserts-option-accessible-dive-watch-introducing/

4 responses

  1. Agree, I find it more generic and less interesting with a metallic insert.

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  2. Like others have said, this is a VERY VERY generic watch, and takes away from the classic design elements of DOXA. I guess they are trying to provide a more mainstream version that will have greater sell through….. I know watch companies ultimately need to sell watches to stay alive and so I don’t mind them doing it, just wouldn’t be buying this as a DOXA watch.

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