Doxa Introduces the SUB 200 II Collection, The Retro Diver Revised (Incl. Video)

Doxa’s diving watch legacy is second to none, and the brand’s signature helmet-shaped case design, introduced with the SUB 300, stands out from across the room. Yet, it’s not all they do, as the SUB 200 collection simplifies things a bit and has a design of its own, despite being a typical Doxa. Introduced in 2019, it has served the brand well and comes in traditional Doxa colours and with reliable Swiss Made mechanics. But for 2026, Doxa has decided to update its entry-level dive watch collection by making… Bigger. So let’s have a look at the new SUB 200 II Collection, the retro-styled dive watch that goes against the downsizing trends.

As said, the SUB 200 collection was launched in 2019 as a simpler and more accessible alternative to the pro-specced and very distinctive SUB 300 collection. Ever since its release, we’ve seen multiple evolutions implemented, such as new colourways, or versions with steel bezels. While it gets rid of the classic, typical Doxa elements such as the double-signed bezel, the oversized minute hand and the crosshair design that signify a Doxa, the SUB 200 is as resilient and robust as you expect it to be. And with the new SUB 200 II Collection, Doxa not only changes the size of the case by not making it smaller, but also launches also new dial and bezel variations, plus a black DLC-coated variation already hinted at by a Sediqqi limited edition presented at Dubai Watch Week last year.

The design for the Doxa SUB 200 II is very similar to the SUB 200 as we know it since 2019. The stainless steel mid-case is topped with a unidirectional rotating bezel, has a box-shaped sapphire crystal, elegant, retro-shaped lyre-shaped lugs and a solid steel caseback on the reverse side. With water resistance rated at 200m, it will surely keep you on time regardless of what body of water you jump into.

Where the SUB 200 II changes, as mentioned earlier, is its size, although the height is slimmed a touch, to 12.80mm top to bottom. Previous models all came in 42mm, yet this new one sizes up to 44mm in diameter. It’s a bit of an unexpected move, to be honest, but we let you judge its relevance. Where there’s sensibility in downsizing, there can also be sensibility in upsizing. And admittedly, the compact case construction keeps the visual size and the wearability in check, as the lug-to-lug size tops out at 48mm, compared to 46mm for its smaller sibling, and still reasonable for a watch of this diameter.

Doxa changes things up with the dial and bezel, presenting the first collection with a fumé (smoked/gradient) finish all around.  While there have been fumé and sunray brushed dials before, such as the Dune edition for Art in Time presented in 2025, this marks the first time an entire range is presented in such a style.

In uncoated stainless steel, the SUB 200 II comes with a dial in black, grey, blue or green with a lighter centre that darkens towards the edge. This is matched with a circular brushed aluminium bezel insert. The central hour, minutes and seconds hands, are finished with beige Super-LumiNova inserts. The applied hour markers follow suit, yet have a deep black outline for contrast. The printed minute track is in beige as well, and so is the outline for the bevelled date window at 3 o’clock.

Entirely new to Doxa’s portfolio, at least in a permanently available edition, is the black DLC-coated version. Fitted with a Red coral dial, it certainly will grab attention when worn. This one comes with white Super-LumiNova inserts all around instead of beige ones, which is matched with a white scale on the black bezel insert and so on.

Beating away underneath the solid caseback, decorated with the image of a sailing yacht riding the waves, is a Sellita SW200-1 automatic, an alternative to the ETA 2824. Decorated to Doxa’s requests, including a signed rotor, this runs at a rate of 28,800vph and delivers 38 hours of power reserve. Admittedly, this is where others perform better, such as the La Joux-Perret G100 series, but with the recently introduced SW200-2 Power+ and its extended power reserve of 65 hours, it’s a matter of time before brands like Doxa will benefit from it.

The Doxa Sub 200 II comes on a mesh Milanese bracelet or a Tropic-style FKM rubber strap in black, blue, green or red, to match the dial. All in all, the new Doxa Sub 200 II delivers what we expect from the brand, plus a bit more. As a dive watch specialist, it’s as robust as it needs to be, oozes a comforting vintage appeal and looks more stylish than ever thanks to the handsome fumé dials. The move up in size is unexpected, but it doesn’t mean the Sub 200 II becomes unwearable.

Prices are kept very sensible, starting at EUR 1,590 for the stainless steel case on the FKM rubber straps or EUR 1,650 on a steel bracelet, going up to the black DLC version on FKM rubber for EUR 1,690, or EUR 1,790 if you want that same red-and-black look, but on a black-coated Milanaise bracelet. For more details, please visit doxawatches.com.