Cvstos might not ring a bell with many of our readers but it is a niche watch brand founded in 2005 by Sassoun Sirmakes, son of Vartan Sirmakes of the Franck Muller Watchland Group. Based in Geneva with workshops in Meyrin, Cvstos is renowned for its upmarket watch portfolio built almost entirely around tonneau-shaped cases, a feature that often is compared to Richard Mille watches. Not surprising then to discover that co-founder and designer Antonio Terranova worked at Richard Mille long before joining Sirmakes. The recently introduced Metropolitan collection is one of the most straightforward collections at Cvstos, comprised of time-and-date models with interchangeable bracelets and straps. The skeletonised version of the Metropolitan, introduced earlier this year in a titanium case, is now accompanied by a spectacular model in a sapphire crystal case.
Given the hardness of sapphire crystal, the third hardest mineral after diamonds and moissanite on the Mohs scale of hardness, crafting a case from sapphire crystal is a complicated task; replicating the cambered lines of a tonneau-shaped case must have been doubly hard. Measuring 51mm in length with a diameter of 42mm, the tonneau case is recreated in non-reflecting sapphire crystal all around, including the caseback and crown guards, meaning that light enters the case from all angles. The only part of the case that is not sapphire crystal is the screw-down titanium crown; the case is water-resistant to 50m.
The main plate and bridges reveal their on-trend green PVD coating with a horizontal brushed finishing. The curvy green top plate is elaborately skeletonised and features nine spokes housing the indices that extend to the minutes track. The indices at 12, 3 and 9 o’clock are not attached to the plate but to the sloping green sapphire minutes flange and framed in the same green-coated material as the plate. You can see that the applied indices have been well designed with their faceted contours and strip of luminescent material in the central depression. The indices at 12, 3, 6 (truncated) and 9 o’clock are rectangular, while the other indices are angled to follow the contours of the dial. The chromed hour and minute hands are also treated with Super-LumiNova and have a hollowed-out area close to the cannon pinion to avoid obstructing the view.
The skeletonised model incorporates the small seconds and date features of the Metropolitan family with a sapphire crystal ring with white printed markers and a three-armed indicator shaped like a shuriken (a Cvstos signature). The round date window is carved into the crystal and occupies the 30-second position on the ring. To stand out, the background of the date is white, and the cut-out numerals are black. You can appreciate the cut-out numeral disc suspended in the movement.
The sapphire crystal case reveals the large openworked rotor on the reverse with its brushed finishing and an individual QR code engraved in a small square vouching for the authenticity of the watch and allowing access to a personalised page on the Cvstos website with detailed information. The automatic calibre CVS410 is made in-house at the brand’s Meyrin site and has contemporary blackened bridges. It beats at a frequency of 28,800vph and delivers a comfortable 50-hour power reserve.
Matching the green colour scheme of the dial, the accompanying green hand-stitched alligator leather strap comes with a titanium pin buckle. The watch can also be ordered with a green rubber strap. The press release makes no mention of whether this strap is interchangeable like other Metropolitan pieces.
Availability & Price
The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Skeleton Sapphire is a limited edition of 50 pieces and retails for CHF 37,800. For more information, please visit cvstos.com.