Monochrome Watches
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Chopard’s Subtle L.U.C XPS Facelift Is A Nice Reminder of Just How Handsome It Is

| By Xavier Markl | 3 min read |
Chopard LUC XPS facelift 2017

Chopard is unveiling a subtle facelift of the dapper, comfortable and incredibly well-engineered L.U.C XPS. The good news is that it comes in different versions which will suit all tastes and pockets: from the unapologetically smart blued-dialed platinum version to the more affordable steel version, a great opportunity if you are looking for a high-end “haute-horlogerie” dress watch at an accessible price point. Here’s an early hands-on look.

With this facelift, the chic and understated L.U.C XPS remains true to its fit with a case measuring 40 mm in diameter and 7.2 mm thick. As you would expect with such a slender profile and ergonomic case, it is elegant and superbly comfortable on the wrist.  The attention to detail is really impressive and the finish impeccable with polished surfaces and satin-brushed flanks and inter-lug space. It would be indeed difficult to find any fault, right down to its well-proportioned signed crown.

Chopard LUC XPS facelift 2017

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The new XPS steel watches come with subtly redesigned dials. The steel version has a white dial with a fine-grained finish. The gold version dials are either silver-toned or black with sunburst finish, and the superb top of the range platinum version features a galvanic blue dial with sunburst finish.

Chopard LUC XPS facelift 2017

The small seconds subdial is finely snailed. The applied numerals and hour markers are gilded or rhodium-plated, and paired with the L.U.C signature fusée-dauphine hands.

Chopard LUC XPS facelift 2017

The L.U.C 96.01-L calibre of the XPS platinum with COSC certificate and Geneva Seal. Made of 208 parts, it features Geneva stripes, fine chamfers and perlage. The micro-rotor is stamped 22ct gold.

All three models are based on different versions of the same movement; the immaculately designed and finished caliber 96. This extra-thin (just 3.3 mm thick) automatic movement is a modern construction, which features a micro rotor with bi-directional winding. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a healthy power reserve (58 to 65h) thanks to its two stacked coaxial barrels that also ensure more constant torque.

Chopard LUC XPS facelift 2017

The L.U.C 96.01-L calibre, its swan-neck regulator, balance hairspring with Phillips terminal curve and micro rotor. It was the first calibre created by Chopard Manufacture in 1996 after Karl-Fiedrich Scheufele had initiated a program to produce movements in-house in Fleurier.

The movement is finished to different standards depending on the versions. The lavishly decorated 96.01-L bears the Geneva seal. The steel version’s movement finish and design is slightly simpler – in particular, the rotor is in heavy metal (as opposed to 22 ct. gold) and it does not feature the elegant swan-neck regulator. Something perfectly understandable as it allows Chopard to propose the new steel XPS at CHF 7,900, which is a lower price than the previous steel versions, reflecting these minor product updates. All in all, it seems excellent value for an elegant dress watch fitted with a movement of superb pedigree.

Chopard LUC XPS facelift 2017

The L.U.C 96.50-L calibre of the XPS steel is made of 197 components.

The Chopard L.U.C XPS is paired with superb hand-stitched alligator straps with alligator lining secured with an elegant pin buckle engraved with the L.U.C logo. For more information about Chopard, please visit

Chopard LUC XPS facelift 2017

Technical specifications Chopard L.U.C XPS

  • Case: 40 mm x 7.2 mm – steel, white gold, pink gold or platinum case – sapphire crystal and see-through case back with antireflective coating – water resistant to 30m.
  • Movement: caliber 96.50, 96.12-L, 96.01-L mechanical with automatic winding (micro-rotor) – 27.4 mm x 3.3 mm – 58 to 65h power reserve (depending on the movement version) – 28’800 vibrations/h – 27/29 jewels – hours, minutes, small seconds and date. COSC certificate. Geneva Seal quality hallmark for the 96.01-L.
  • Strap: alligator leather with pin buckle.
  • Price:  CHF 7,900 in steel, CHF 15,160 in gold, CHF 24,630 in platinum
  • Reference: 168591-3001 in stainless steel, 161948-5001 in 18ct rose gold, 161948-1001 in 18ct white gold, 161946-9001 in platinum

Chopard LUC XPS facelift 2017

4 responses

  1. No worries with the date change, just the disk half-engaged as someone set the date.

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