Monochrome Watches
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The Epitome of Discreet Luxury, The new Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier in Lucent Steel

Compact, refined and monochrome, Chopard’s sector dial watch has impeccable mechanical pedigree, covered by the most demanding certification in watchmaking.

| By Rebecca Doulton | 3 min read |

A compact, elegant, and sublimely discreet L.U.C Qualité Fleurier heralds two firsts for Chopard. It is the first watch to receive the coveted seal since Chopard became the sole guardian of the Qualité Fleurier Foundation in 2022, and it is also the first watch of this elite family to be made in Lucent Steel.

The Qualité Fleurier Certification was created in the early 2000s by three high-end Fleurier manufactures – Parmigiani Fleurier, Bovet and Chopard. It differs from the COSC or Geneva Seal because it evaluates the whole watch, from the quality of the finishing to the accuracy and from the assembly to the durability and reliability of a model. One of the most rigorous certifications in the industry, to obtain the Qualité Fleurier seal, the watch must have first passed the COSC chronometer certification, and the head of the watch (not including the bracelet or buckle) must be 100% Swiss-made. Following the withdrawal of three Maisons from its advisory board, Chopard became the sole custodian of the Qualité Fleurier Foundation, which is now headquartered in the brand’s Fleurier manufacture.

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Lucent Steel is a trademarked alloy used by Chopard. Made from recycled steel smelted at higher temperatures, It is brighter, stronger, and harder than regular steel and more resistant to scratches.

Flaunting perfect dress watch dimensions, the case has a 39mm diameter and a thickness of 8.92mm. Inspired by the first L.U.C Qualité Fleurier watch of 2005, the watch has welded elongated lugs that are vaguely reminiscent of the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache model but more angular, similar to the lugs on the gold L.U.C model we covered in 2014. With its brightly polished bezel, lugs and crown and contrasting satin-brushed flanks, the choice of stainless steel dresses down the watch somewhat, making it a more casual yet desirable candidate for everyday wear and tear.

The superior luminosity of Lucent Steel is echoed on the silver sector dial. Like many sector dials, different textures highlight the different tracks on the monochrome silver dial. On the periphery is the minutes track, followed by the thicker chapter ring bearing the hour markers with its circular satin-brushed finish. The central area of the dial is sunray brushed, and the small seconds counter is finely snailed. Despite sticking to just one tone, the different finishings make the dial highly legible.

Giving the watch a slightly 1950s air, the applied and faceted rhodium-plated indices are dagger-shaped and accompanied by a dot of lume. The syringe-shaped hands are also treated with lume, and their thin tips alight perfectly on the hour markers and minutes track.

The extra-thin L.U.C 96.09-L calibre powering the watch is an evolution of the first calibre produced at Chopard Manufacture. With a thickness of just 3.30mm, the movement is equipped with Chopard Twin Technology with two superimposed barrels. Wound by a bidirectional 22k gold micro-rotor, the barrels deliver a power reserve of 65 hours. The movement is beautifully finished with Geneva stripes, hand-finished anglage, and circular graining on the baseplate.

Reasserting the watch’s more relaxed nature, it is combined with a casual brown calfskin leather strap with beige stitches and a pin buckle in Lucent Steel. It will be priced at CHF 19,300. For more information, please consult

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