Small But Mighty – Six Versatile Watches of 36mm and Under

People often say “bigger is better”, but also “big things come in small packages”. While both statements can be very true in multiple aspects of life, it also goes for watches. In some instances, you want a bit of size and heft in a watch, while on other occasions, you want something a bit more subtle and refined. With the industry gravitating to smaller watches for a while now, we’re spoilt for choice. As a direct result, the classical dress watch has undergone a bit of a resurgence, but small doesn’t always have to equal classical and simple. On the contrary, even as brands continue to find new ways to pack a mighty punch in a petite package. With that in mind, we’ve selected six watches sized 36mm or less that have swayed us either with dashing classical looks or with pure audacity and panache.

Nomos Tangente Gold

The Nomos Tangente Gold starts us off in the most classical way, both in style and in stature. With a 35mm wide solid yellow gold case and this deep ruthenium-finished dial, it certainly looks the part. Fit for the red carpet, as well as many other things, it’s a simple yet very convincing Bauhaus-inspired dress watch. Sharp, slim, refined, and with an in-house movement visible through the caseback, there’s a lot to love. Worn on an 18mm Shell Cordovan leather strap with a case-matching pin buckle, it’s part of the permanent collection. The price ain’t half bad either, as the Tangente Gold retails for EUR 9,800, quite sensible for a solid gold watch!

For more information, please visit Nomos-Glashuette.com.

Quick Facts – 35mm x 6.9mm – 18k gold yellow gold case, polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – galvanised silver- or ruthenium-plated dial – gold or blue hands – Arabic numerals & baton markers – recessed small seconds subdial – Calibre DUW 3001 Neomatik, in-house automatic – 21,600vph – 43h power reserve – in-house Swing System escapement – brown or black Shell Cordovan strap with yellow gold pin buckle – permanent collection – EUR 9,800 

Toledano & Chan B/1.3R

Cut from a very different block is the Toledano & Chan B/1.3R. Ignoring its slightly nondescript name, the B/1.3R is a smaller version of Toledano & Chan’s signature edgy style. Inspired by brutalist architecture, the watch is all about facets and contrasts. The asymmetrical titanium case is 32mm wide by 31.5mm long, and ranges in thickness from 9.1mm to 10.4mm thanks to a sloped and facetted sapphire crystal. This facetted ‘window’ throws all kinds of rays of light across the rippled 18k gold dial. This watch is very much alive when worn, and will surely get you comments! It uses the slender Sellita SW100 automatic, is limited to 300 pieces, and retails for USD 10,200.

For more information, please visit ToledanoandChan.com.

Quick Facts – 32mm x 31.5mm – 9.1 to 10.4mm height – grade 5 titanium case & bracelet, faceted – facetted sapphire crystal – solid caseback – tucked crown – 50m water-resistant – 18k gold dial with rippled texture – faceted hour & minute hands – Sellita SW100, automatic – 28,800vph – 41h power reserve – integrated single-link grade 5 titanium bracelet, faceted – concealed butterfly clasp – limited to 300 pieces – USD 10,200 excl. VAT

Tudor Ranger Dune White 36

If you’re looking for something ultra-legible and fly-under-the-radar, the new Tudor Ranger Dune White in 36mm might be right up your alley. This no-nonsense watch was previously only available in 40mm and with a black dial, but this sandy-beige colour (which Tudor calls Dune White, go figure) livens things up a lot, even in this smaller diameter. With very obvious Rolex Explorer-like vibes, it does what it needs to do without any frills. Inside, we find Tudor’s own Calibre MT5400 automatic, made with Kenissi. I would opt for the three-link steel bracelet with adjustable T-Fit folding clasp, but it’s also available on a green textile strap. Prices start at EUR 3,120.

For more information, please visit TudorWatches.com.

Quick Facts – 36mm x 11mm – stainless steel case, brushed – sapphire crystal, solid caseback – screw-down crown – 100m water-resistant – domed Dune White (beige) dial, matte – black hour markers & hands with beige SLN inserts – red-tipped central seconds hand – black minute track with beige lume dots – Calibre MT5400, in-house automatic – 28,800vph – 70h power reserve – three-link bracelet with T-Fit folding clasp or green textile strap – EUR 3,120 (fabric) – EUR 3,450 (bracelet)

Pequignet Concorde titanium 36mm

Going off into an entirely different direction yet again, the Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36mm is a compact and compelling take on the integrated sports watch design. The monochromatic appeal of the 36mm by 9.25mm sandblasted grade 5 titanium case is complemented by a vertically brushed dark grey dial. The black markers and hands are finished with grey Super-LumiNova for a bit of night-time legibility. Inside, we find Pequignet’s own Initial automatic movement, running at a rate of 28,800vph and delivering 65 hours of power reserve. The sandblasted titanium bracelet is neatly integrated into the case and has uniquely shaped links. The price is EUR 4,800.

For more information, please visit Pequignet.com.

Quick Facts – 36mm x 9.25mm – grade 5 titanium case, sandblasted – sapphire crystal front & back – 100m water-resistant – vertically brushed dark grey dial – black baton markers – black semi-openworked hands – grey SLN elements – Calibre Initial, in-house automatic – 28,800vph – 65h power reserve – sandblasted ruthenium finish – integrated single-link titanium bracelet with folding clasp – permanent collection – EUR 4,800

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic

Being an almost literal blast from the past, we have Jaeger-LeCoultre’s elegant and faithful revival watch, the Master Control Classic. Crafted from steel and measuring 36mm in width and 8.15mm in height, it’s as timeless and elegant as when it was first launched in the mid-1990s. The silver-toned sunray-brushed dial is clean and legible, with applied markers, Dauphine hands and only the slightest touch of Super-LumiNova. The time-and-date Calibre 899 is produced in-house but shielded from view, and it’s worn on a brown Ostrich leather strap with a steel pin buckle. Limited to 500 pieces, it retails for EUR 8,950.

For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.

Quick Facts – 36mm x 8.15mm – stainless steel case, polished & brushed – sapphire crystal – solid caseback with Master Control medallion – 50m water-resistant – silvery-white sunray-brushed dial – applied markers & hands with SLN – blued central seconds hand – framed date window – Calibre 899, in-house automatic – 218 components – 28,800vph – 70h power reserve – brown Ostrich leather strap with pin buckle – limited edition of 500 pieces – EUR 8,950

Rolex Land-Dweller

Size is a hugely debatable and subjective topic, but to us, the 36mm Rolex Land-Dweller trumps the 40mm one. Causing quite a stir when released about a year ago, the Land-Dweller was the first all-new watch by The Crown in years. It brought back elements of the 1970s and the brand’s quartz watches, with a shaped case, fluted bezel and flat Jubilee-style bracelet. This one is in rose gold with a white dial, which balances out the texture quite neatly. The Calibre 7135 also introduced us to the Dynapulse escapement that regulates the movement at a frequency of 36,000vph. Prices start at EUR 15,100 in steel, with this Everose Land-Dweller retailing for EUR 46,100.

For more information, please visit Rolex.com.

Quick Facts – 36mm x 9.70mm – 18k Everose gold case, brushed & polished – fluted bezel – sapphire crystal front & back – Twinlock screw-down crown – 100m water-resistant – white dial with honeycomb pattern – applied markers & hands with Chromalight inserts – Calibre 7135, in-house automatic – Dynapulse escapement – Superlative Chronometer – 36,000vph – 66h power reserve – ‘Flat Jubilee’ 5-link bracelet with folding clasp – Ref. 127235 – EUR 46,100