Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
Buying Guide

Less Is More, With 6 Handsome Small-Seconds Watches

Toning things down to just three hands doesn't mean you have to settle for boring watches.

| By Robin Nooy | 7 min read |

We often discuss trends and hypes in watchmaking, as we tend to focus on “What’s next?!?” instead of settling down for a second and appreciating something classical, something timeless. In recent times it’s all been about luxury sports watches, downsized cases, specific colours or natural stone dials and so on. But there’s a comforting red line throughout watchmaking that seems to never disappoint; the simple time-only watch. Toning things down to the bare minimum can be very comforting as the style will never go out of fashion. However, as these six watches perfectly demonstrate, it doesn’t have to be boring or plain for even a second! With that said, let’s take a closer look at some of the most refreshing Hours-Minutes-Small-Seconds watches we’ve recently come across!

Schwarz-Etienne Geometry Black

The beauty of the Schwarz Etienne Geometry lies in its dial, whether it’s finished in silver, salmon, cherry red, or more recently; matte black. The distinctly quartered dial design, a creation by Eric Giroud, uplifts the watch tremendously. The solid gold base gets four different guilloché decorations arranged in alternating orders for each quarter, plus a relatively large small seconds subdial at 6′. Even though the black tones things down, the Geometry remains a very intriguing watch, even more so considering it has an in-house micro-rotor automatic. Limited to 100 pieces and worn on an aged black leather strap, it retails for CHF 23,800.

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For more information, please visit Schwarz-Etienne.ch.

Quick Facts – 39mm x 11mm – stainless steel case, polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – matte black dial – segmented guilloché pattern – sandblasted minute track & small seconds subdial – Lancine-shaped hands – Calibre ASE 200.02, in-house – automatic winding with micro-rotor – 33 jewels – 21,600vph – 86h power reserve – aged black leather strap with folding buckle – limited to 100 pieces – EUR 23,800

Lang & Heyne Friedrich II

Lang & Heyne goes down a more classical route with the gorgeous Friedrich II, mixing very traditional design and watchmaking codes with ever-so-subtle contemporary details. The most notable feature is perhaps the signature triple-lug design, but the focus should very much be on the crisp, white lacquered, double sunken dial made from solid silver. The sporty minute track with red triangles pointing at the hour markers adds a modern touch, while a blued set of hands tells time. The whole design feels balanced and sophisticated and is backed by a properly impressive manual wound movement. As this one is in platinum, the price is USD 42,700.

For more information, please visit Lang-und-Heyne.de.

Quick Facts – 39.2mm x 10.5mm – platinum case, polished – signature triple lug design – sapphire crystal front & back – onion-style crown with guards – 30m water-resistant – white double sunken dial, solid silver base – printed numerals & tracks – blued steel hands – small seconds at 6′ – Calibre VI, in-house – hand-wound – 18,000vph – 55h power reserve – hand-engraved – 19 jewels incl. 1 diamond – alligator leather strap with pin buckle – USD 42,700 (other materials & bespoke options available)

Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic

Changing things up again, we turn to the Louis Vuitton Tambour. And not just any Tambout, but the unexpectedly scrumptious Tambour Ceramic. While it might raise an eyebrow at first because of its chocolately-brown exterior, the rose gold elements on the case and bracelet elevate it to much more than just another ceramic sports watch. The flair continues on the beautifully balanced multi-level dial, also finished in brown and with rose gold details throughout. Whichever way you turn it, that sensual contrast will remind us of the famous Louis Vuitton trunks. Powered by a micro-rotor automatic, this 40mm beauty retails for EUR 75,000.

For more information, please visit LouisVuitton.com.

Quick Facts – 40mm x 8.3mm – brown ceramic & 18k rose gold case – brown ceramic crown – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – stepped brown dial – 18k rose gold markers, numerals & hands (with SLN) – snailed small seconds subdial at 6′ – Calibre LFT023, proprietary micro-rotor automatic – 31 transparent jewels – 28,800vph – 50h power reserve – integrated brown ceramic & 18k rose gold bracelet with folding clasp – EUR 75,000

Czapek Promenade Plissé

The Czapek Promenade Plissé takes its inspiration from the world of fashion and fabrics, with its distinctly rippled dial. The intriguing illusion of movement caused by the dial, also puts the small seconds subdial between 4′ and 5′ instead of traditionally at 6′. This adds a whimsical little touch to the whole look of the Promenade Plissé, which comes in pearl white, ivory or soft pink, with skeletonized arrow-shaped hands. Around the back, you’re greated by Czapek’s in-house Calibre SXH5 micro-rotor automatic. Limited to just 18 pieces per colour and worn on a Nubuck strap or Milanaise bracelet, the it retails for CHF 16,000.

For more information, please visit Czapek.com.

Quick Facts – 38mm x 10.8mm – stainless steel case, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – pearl white, ivory or pink dial with flinqué “plissé” pattern by Metalem – applied indices & skeletonized arrow-shaped hands – Calibre SXH5, in-house micro-rotor automatic – 28,800vph – 60h power reserve – grey or brown Nubuck leather strap with pin buckle or Milanaise bracelet – limited to 18 pieces per colour – CHF 16,000 (excl. VAT)

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds

Smaller and slimmer than ever before, the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds is one of the finest time-only luxury sports watches around. The flowing design looks as fresh as it did on its debut back in 2020, while the hammered and Grand Feu enamel aqua blue dial is just stunning. The snailed small seconds subdial breaks up the pattern for a touch of contrast, while Globolight inserts in the hands help with checking the time at night. The in-house produced Calibre HMC 500 finishes the job for us completely. And lastly, the wavey integrated steel bracelet ensures a perfectly comfortable fit. The price is set at CHF 29,900 incl. VAT.

Moser Streamliner Small Seconds Micro-Rotor Enamel

For more information, please visit H-Moser.com.

Quick Facts – 39mm x 10.9mm – stainless steel, brushed & polished – domed sapphire crystal, see-through caseback – screw-down crown – 120m water-resistant – gradient aqua blue Grand Feu enamel dial with hammered texture – applied indices – hands with luminous Globolight inserts – Calibre HMC 500, in-house micro-rotor automatic – in-house Straumann hairspring – 21,600vph – 72h power reserve – integrated bracelet with folding clasp – CHF 29,900 (incl. taxes)

Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green

To round things off, we turn to Chopard for another look at one of last year’s best new watches, the stunning L.U.C XPS Forest Green. The L.U.C line has always been the home of the most sophisticated watches by Chopard, dedicated to the brand’s founding father. This one comes in swinging with its stunning sunray-brushed sector dial in Forest Green with off-white markings. The whole design is perfectly balanced and proportioned, with stylized Dauphine hands indicating the time. The in-house Calibre L.U.C 96.12-L inside the relatively compact case is the icing on the cake. Worn on a brown calfskin leather strap, it costs EUR 12,700.

Chopard LUC XPS Forest Green review

For more information, please visit Chopard.com.

Quick Facts – 40mm x 7.2mm – Lucent steel case, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – Forest Green sector dial with sunray-brushed finish – off-white printed markings – stylized Dauphine hands – recessed small seconds subdial – Calibre L.U.C 69.12-L, in-house micro-rotor automatic – 28,800vph – 65h power reserve with Chopard Twin Technology (two stacked barrels) – hand-made light brown calfskin leather strap with pin buckle – EUR 12,700

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8 responses

  1. Really? Nothing under 10k is worth mentioning? I got a JS Elliott Throry Two that cost $1,300, performs just as well and looks significantly more upscale than many of those.

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  2. I really like the Chopard, but it’s not perfectly proportioned. Too small movement for the case, placing the second dial too close to the center of the watch
    Since it is a lovely movement, the preferred solution would obviously be to reduce case size a bit 😉.

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  3. Shout out for the echo/neutra’s Rivanera — all of the style of these watches and at a tenth the price 🙂

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  4. I too find your selection ridiculously expensive! I love my Farer Durham cushion case at a fraction of the cost.

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  5. “Buying guide”? What about Moritz Grossmann, A. Lange, Glashütte Original, Kudoke, Dornblüth, Cornehl, Nomos, Cartier, Omega Deville or, on the more “affordable” side, Louis Erard?

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  6. I cannot afford there minions watch that is sad or there price structure is unrealistic?

  7. I agree with Dave, my Farer Durham Pullman looks just as good as any of these and are NOT priced beyond what most people can afford.

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