Five Highly Original and Creative Retrograde Watches

It’s common knowledge that the vast majority of watches use centrally mounted hands continuously rotating 360 degrees in a clockwise direction to tell time down to the hours and minutes, and most often the seconds. Often the seconds indication is moved to 6′ or 9′ and has its own separate sub-dial, but that pretty much covers 90% of the watches, if not more. But does it always have to be this never-ending cycle of motion? Well, no, really, as these five highly creative and technical watches brilliantly demonstrate. Each one relies on the principle of retrograde indications, where a hand or other type of pointer will return to its original position after completing a pre-determined trajectory. Let’s take a closer look at these mechanical marvels!

Otsuka Lotec No. 6

The Otsuka Lotec No. 6 is one of those watches that is suddenly on everyone’s radar. Jiro Katayama, the man behind the brand, is a self-taught watchmaker from Otsuka, Japan, with a background in car and product design. His designs are inspired by industrial instruments and gauges, resulting in a unique look. The No. 6 uses a base movement from Miyota, with an in-house module for retrograde minutes and hours. In addition to that, an aperture reveals the date in the bottom right section. You’ll have a challenge sourcing one of these, as they’re only sold in Japan for now. The price is JPY 440,000, or roughly EUR 2,500.

For more information, please visit Otsuka-Lotec.com.

Quick Facts – 42.6mm x 11.8mm – stainless steel case, brushed – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – silver dial – dual retrograde indications – polished hands – date aperture – Miyota 9015 base movement, with in-house module – 28,800vph – 40h power reserve – double-ridged black leather strap with pin buckle – sold only in Japan – JPY 440,000 (approx. EUR 2,500)

Kauri Regulateur Carbone

The Kauri Regulateur Carbone is a modern take on a rather classical complication: the regulator watch. Normally, this splits the time into separate indicators for the hours, minutes and seconds. The gold-coloured minute hand in the centre gracefully follows its hour-long path before snapping back to zero again. This is paired with a jumping hour display in the bottom section – a rarely seen combination. The mechanism that drives both is partially visible as well. All is set in a stainless steel and Carbonoium modular case. The movement is made with Olivier Mory, and it is sold by subscription only, limited to 20 pieces and for a price of CHF 34,000.

For more information, please visit Kauri-Watches.com.

Quick Facts – 41.5mm x 11mm – stainless steel & Carbonium case – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistance – partially openworked multi-level dial – jumping hour with retrograde central minutes – gold-coloured hands – hand-wound movement with base by Olivier Mory – in-house regulator module – 21,600vph – carbon grey alligator leather strap with pin buckle – 100h power reserve – subscription watch, limited to 100 pieces – CHF 34,000

Guebly Chapitre 1

The Guebly Chapitre 1 is the edgy expression of collector-turned-entrepreneur Adnane Kerd and has a rather uncommon indication. The case certainly looks striking enough on its own, but the main attraction is in the lower half of the dial. Where the central hands indicate hours and minutes in a traditional manner, the curved arc is for the retrograde 30-seconds display. Yes, the minute is split in two for this one! At the end of its half-minute trajectory, the hand jumps back and starts all over again. Just 100 pieces will be built at 15 pieces per year, all relying on an extensively modified and decorated Olivier Mory movement. The price is set at CHF 38,900.

For more information, please visit Guebly.com.

Quick Facts – 42mm x 10.56mm – grade 5 titanium case, satin-finished – sapphire crystal front & back – 100m water-resistant – blue sunray-brushed dial – retrograde 30-seconds display – calibre 2131 (base architecture by Olivier Mory) – micro-rotor automatic – 215 parts – 28,800vph – 70h power reserve – COSC certified – rubber-lined grained calfskin strap with titanium & velcro buckle – production limited to 100 pieces, at 15 pieces per year max – CHF 38,900

Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon

Jacob & Co. makes some of the most extravagant watches – that much is clear – but the recent Bugatti Tourbillon is a true mechanical marvel. Closely related to Bugatti’s latest hypercar, this replicates the car’s instrument cluster with a tourbillon on the left, dual retrograde hours and minutes in the central, and dual power reserve indications on the right. Below that is the miniature sapphire crystal V16 automaton, activated by the pusher in the crown. Only 150 will be produced in this black PVD titanium and black rubber strap configuration, with 100 more in other styles to come. The price is an eye-watering USD 340,000.

For more information, please visit JacobandCo.com.

Quick Facts – 52mm x 44mm x 15mm – black PVD titanium case – 7 sapphire crystals – 30m water-resistance – triple sub-dials for tourbillon, retrograde hours & minutes and dual power reserve display – miniature sapphire crystal V16 automaton – JCAM55, hand-wound (with Concepto) – 557 parts – 21,600vph – 48h power reserve – interchangeable black rubber strap with folding buckle – limited to 150 pieces in this configuration, 250 pieces in total – USD 340,000

HYT T1 Series

The T1 Series ushers in a new chapter, as well as a new look for HYT, the meca-fluidic independent watchmaker. It still relies on the signature retrograde liquid hour indication, yet with a new and edgier case design and a closed dial. The two immiscible liquids inside the capillary are pushed along by a system of bellows, with the split between the two indicating the hour. After twelve hours (from 6 to 18 o’clock), the system resets again, with the two fluids visually moving back. This is paired with a central minute hand and a power reserve indication. Prices are CHF 48,000 for a titanium case or CHF 64,000 for a gold case, both before taxes.

For more information, please visit HYTWatches.com.

Quick Facts – 45.30mm x 46.30mm x 17.20mm – titanium and black-coated titanium or rose gold and titanium case – sapphire crystal front & back – sunray brushed dial in silver, blue or salmon – central minutes with liquid retrograde hours – calibre 501-CM, proprietary – hand-wound – mechanical base with bellow-module – 28,800vph – 72h power reserve – rubber strap with pin buckle & quick-release system – non-limited edition – CHF 48,000 (titanium) or CHF 64,000 (gold)