Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
Buying Guide

Independent Watchmaking At Its Finest, With Six Recent Masterpieces

From subtle to outspoken, creativity and originality reign supreme in the independent watchmaking scene.

| By Robin Nooy | 7 min read |

Style, creativity, originality and craftsmanship are often at the core of what we appreciate in watches. From the very lowest end to the very highest end of mechanical watchmaking, I like to think we seek something that connects to our personality in the watches we buy. And where else to find more of that than within the independent watchmaking scene? Admittedly, budget-wise, it’s not always a market for everyone, but it is where craftsmen and women push the boundaries of aesthetics, mechanics and so on. To underline this sentiment, here’s a look at six of the finest high-end watches by indie watchmakers.

Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds

Coming in from the UK, the S3 Deadbeat Seconds is the latest by Garrick. This prolific advocate for British mechanical watchmaking has made a serious step up with this one, as it’s truly an amazing-looking watch front to back. The whole deadbeat seconds mechanism and the rest of the running gear are exposed front and centre, and beautifully finished by hand. The movement is made in-house and fitted with a Trinity free-sprung balance. And Garrick being Garrick, you have plenty of bespoke options to personalise it. Only a handful of pieces are built per year, at a price of GBP 40,000 excl. VAT in steel, or GBP 47,000 excl. VAT in gold.

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For more information, please visit Garrick.co.uk.

Quick Facts – 42mm x 11mm – 904L stainless steel or gold case, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – onion-style crown – 100m water-resistant – openworked dial – german silver chapter ring – blued steel hands – jumping seconds mechanism – power reserve display – exposed Trinity balance – Calibre DB-G07, in-house – manual winding – 18,000vph – bespoke options – handmade leather strap with pin buckle – GBP 40,000 ex. VAT (steel) or GBP 47,000 ex. VAT (gold)

Haute-Rive Honoris I Lagoverde

The Haute-Rive Honoris already made a lasting impression on us with its 1,000-hour power reserve and flying tourbillon escapement. Thanks to a mainspring of 3 meters, the Honoris 1 will last you well over a month of needed. Winding is cleverly done with the bezel, and there’s a pusher and column-wheel function selector to switch between winding and setting. This new Lagoverde edition adds to that an exquisite green Grand Feu enamel dial with a hand-engraved wave pattern inspired by Lake Neuchâtel. The pattern fades out from the bottom to the top, as if you’re on the shores of the lake yourself. The price is set at CHF 188,000, and only 8 will be made.

For more information, please visit Haute-Rive-Watches.com.

Quick Facts – 42.5mm x 11.95 – white gold case, polished – rotating bezel for winding – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistance – hand-engraved wave dial with green Grand Feu enamel – leaf-shaped hands – Calibre HR01, proprietary – 18,000vph – 1,000h power reserve – hand-wound via the bezel – 288 parts – flying one-minute tourbillon – 360º power reserve on the back – hand-stitched perch-leather strap – limited to 8 pieces – CHF 188,000 (excl. VAT)

Krayon Anyday

If ever there was a brand with a very original and unique approach to watchmaking, it’s Krayon, founded by watchmaker Rémi Maillat. The brand burst upon the scene a couple of years ago with watches that could tell the sunrise and sunset times at any location on earth. The Everywhere and Anywhere now have welcomed a third member to the family, with the wonderful Anyday. This features the brand’s signature style, with a unique date display that not only shows you the full month, but also shows you the week and weekend days. The dial and movement are to die for, but so is the 39mm wide case. The price is set at CHF 88,000.

For more information, please visit Krayon.ch.

Quick Facts – 39mm x 9.5mm – 18k white gold case, polished – sapphire crystal front & back – blue guilloché dial with Krayon’s Y-logo motif – day indication (crescent moon pointer) & day of the week display (blue colours) – Calibre C032, in-house – manual winding – 378 parts – 21,600vph – 72h power reserve – hours, minutes, month agenda with synoptic day-date indication – blue grained calfskin strap with gold pin buckle – CHF 88,000

Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm

The name Nicolas Delaloye might not be on everyone’s radar, but he’s been around for decades and is a highly skilled watchmaker and member of the AHCI. Stepping away from the indie scene for a good number of years to restore watches and clocks for the Patek Philippe museum, he now returns to the spotlight. His aptly named Renaissance is a wonderful mix of traditional crafts and contemporary elements. The tantalum case houses a classical black (or ivory) enamel dial. The Calibre ND01 is almost completely handmade and around the geartrain of the AS1130. It has a price of CHF 45,000, which sounds quite fair given the work involved!

For more information, please visit DelaloyeGeneve.ch.

Quick Facts – 39mm x 11.1mm – tantalum case – crown with vitrine or amethyst cabuchon – sapphire crystal front & back – black or ivory enamel dial – Roman or Arabic numerals – leaf-shaped hands – Calibre ND01 (based on AS1130) – hand-wound – 18,000vph – 72h power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds – fabric and nubuck leather strap – tantalum pin buckle – limited edition of 24 pieces – CHF 45,000 (excl. taxes)

David Candaux DC6 Titanium

It’s not hard to understand that the DC6 Titanium by David Candaux is an extraordinary watch. With looks unlike anything else, and a complexity that’s also on a very high level, it’s a very fine example of what we love in independent watchmaking. From the shape of the case, to the double domes over the hour and minutes dial and inclined tourbillon escapement, and from the guilloché pattern on the titanium plates and the retractable “Magic Crown”, it’s a truly exciting watch. The contrasting finishes further enhance its appeal. All this understandably comes at quite a cost, though, as the price is approximately EUR 250,000.

For more information, please visit DavidCandaux.com.

Quick Facts – 44mm x 13.53mm (incl. crystals) – titanium case, sand-blasted, brushed and polished – titanium plates with guilloché pattern – retractable “Magic Crown” at 6′ – double sapphire crystal domes – semispherical dial at 3′ – blued hands – inclined flying tourbillon at 9′ – in-house movement – 287 components – 21,600vph – 55h power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, power reserve display – rubber & velcro strap – limited production – CHF 235,000

Raúl Pagès RP2

Don’t be fooled by the subtle demeanour of the RP2 by Raúl Pagès. This is a stunning and very sophisticated watch, with incredible attention to detail and some very original touches. Even though the display is as classical as can be, the cerulian blue and white agate dial gives it tons of character and life, while the hands are beautifully crafted and finished entirely by hand. The Calibre RP2 has a very pure architecture and finish. Noteworthy elements such as the click-spring, variable inertia balance wheel and “moustache” counterweight of the lever are not to be missed. Only 50 will be made over a period of 5 years, at a price of CHF 89,000 before taxes.

For more information, please visit PagesWatches.com.

Quick Facts – 38.5mm x 11.5mm – stainless steel case, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – deep cerulean blue base dial with white agate centre – hand-polished steel hands – Calibre RP2, in-house – manual winding – variable inertia balance with Breguet terminal curve – 21,600vph – 60h power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds – taupe & grey-blue calfskin leather straps, steel pin buckles – limited to 50 pieces over 5 years – CHF 89,000 (excl. VAT)

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3 responses

  1. Why so expensive? Because it’s made by hand. Why don’t they use CNC machines? Because they are too expensive.
    And are they really all made by hand? When I read that one watch takes 300 days of work, and it costs five figures, and they make several hundred a year, something doesn’t add up.

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  2. The price for some of these is just outrageous. I understand the work that goes into them but they carry nothing technology wise above some of the bigger brands who have far superior movements that are also META or COSC certified.

    The cost justification here fails for me on numerous levels. Nothing unique in technology, design, or brand.

    Bigger and better brands with better movements and reliability and track records for significantly less.

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  3. Everyone and their uncle have a “bigger and better” brand on their wrist.
    10 pieces per year! Those people will be enviously asking you what you’re wearing.

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