Monochrome Watches
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Buying Guide

Six More Budget-Friendly Novelties from Geneva Watch Days 2024

Last week we showed you our rather expensive top picks; this week we go shopping on a relatively smaller budget!

| By Robin Nooy | 6 min read |

Last week’s selection of novelties from Geneva Watch Days were our personal picks from everything new we’ve seen during our stay in the Swiss capital. Looking back at the list, we stand by our choices, but one thing stood out: all but one watch cost tens of thousands of euros, if not more. While that’s all fine, of course, it’s far from attainable for the average watch enthusiast or collector. Not all of us have the means to purchase a hand-finished tourbillon watch set in rose gold with a sticker price of CHF 155,000. So, with that in mind and plenty more watches on show during this year’s Geneva Watch Days, let’s tone things down to a more sensible level and go shopping for a new watch below EUR 5,000 instead!

Doxa 300T Aristera

With the introduction of the 300-piece limited edition SUB 300T Aristera, Doxa caters to left-handed people by putting the crown at 9 o’clock instead of the traditional 3 o’clock position. Fortunately, all the rest remains exactly as is, with its signature Professional Orange dial, large black markers and hands with Super-LumiNova and the double scale insert on the rotating bezel. Inside, the reliable Sellita SW200-1 automatic delivers 38 hours of power reserve and indicates the time and date. The Doxa SUB 300T Aristera comes on a beads-of-rice bracelet plus a black and orange NATO-style strap. The price is set at EUR 2,490.

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For more information, please visit DoxaWatches.com.

Quick Facts – 42.50mm x 44.50mm x 14mm – stainless steel case, brushed – unidirectional rotating bezel with double scales – screw-down crown on the left – helium escape valve – sapphire crystal – solid caseback – 1,200m water-resistant – Professional Orange dial – black markers & hands with Super-LumiNova – Sellita SW200-1, automatic – 28,800vph – 38h power reserve – beads-of-rice bracelet & black and orange NATO-style strap – limited to 300 pieces – EUR 2,490

Alpina Heritage automatic

Alpina’s Heritage range brings us back to the olden days as the collection expands with two new Heritage Automatic models. It’s a very appealing proposition, filled with vintage charm, yet uses modern, robust, reliable materials and mechanics. Two dials are available: a two-tone beige and silver dial with a mix of baton markers and Arabic numerals or a full beige dial with Arabic numerals only. Both are powered by the calibre AL520, based on the Sellita SW200 with a running time of just under 40 hours. Worn on black calfskin leather straps, the Heritage Automatic models will set you back a sensible EUR 1,695.

For more information, please visit AlpinaWatches.com.

Quick Facts – 38mm x 10.51mm – stainless steel case, polished – box-shaped sapphire crystal – solid caseback – 30m water-resistant – two-tone beige & silver dial or full beige dial – mix of Arabic numerals and baton style markers or full Arabic numerals – blued hands – vintage Alpina logo – calibre AL-520 (Sellita SW200 base) – automatic – 28,800vph – 38h power reserve – hours, minutes, hacking seconds – black calfskin leather strap with pin buckle – EUR 1,695

Albishorn x massena lab maxigraph

We’re hitting the top-end of our imaginary budget, but with a very cool watch: the Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph. This collaboration between Sebastien Chaulmontet and William Massena launches a new independent brand that tries to imagine “what if…” watches. The Maxigraph is a modern interpretation of what a Regatta chronograph would have looked like in the 1930s. The stark white dial has multiple coloured scales and a 10-second regatta countdown timer. The Maxigraph uses a heavily reworked Valjoux 7750 movement, now with the crown at 10′ and a monopusher at 9′. Supplied on a red tropic-style rubber strap and additional white calfskin leather strap, the Maxigraph is priced at EUR 4,995.

For more information, please visit Albishorn-Watches.ch or MassenaLAB.com.

Quick Facts – 41mm x 13mm – 39mm without bezel – stainless steel case – box-shaped sapphire crystal – bidirectional rotating bezel – solid caseback – 100m water-resistant – white/silver sector dial – blue & red hands – calibre ALB01 A, proprietary automatic monopusher chronograph – 28,800vph – 64h power reserve – patented ten-minute countdown timer mechanism – produced in batches of 25 – available with Massena LAB – tropic-style rubber strap & calfskin leather strap – EUR 4,995

Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival

During Geneva Watch Days, Favre Leuba staged its grand return. Originally founded in 1737, making it the second-oldest known Swiss watchmaking brand, it is now back in full swing. One of the most stylish models in the new collection is the Deep Blue Revival, heavily inspired by the original Deep Blue from the 1960s. The fully polished case follows the retro style to the letter, with a grey sunray-brushed dial and vintage-coloured Super-LumiNova for the hands and markers. It’s powered by the La Joux-Perret G100 automatic and comes on a fully polished bracelet with faceted links. With a price of CHF 2,250, it’s a very fair deal!

For more information, please visit FavreLeuba.com.

Quick Facts – 39mm x 12.75mm – stainless steel case, polished – unidirectional rotating bezel with sapphire insert – domed sapphire crystal – solid caseback – 300m water-resistant – grey sunray-brushed dial – egg-shell coloured luminous markers & hands – bevelled date window – La Joux-Perret G100, automatic – 28,800vph – 68h power reserve – polished stainless steel five-link bracelet with double folding clasp – CHF 2,250

Maurice Lacroix Aikon 42 Automatic Titanium

The Aikon is Maurice Lacroix’s bread-and-butter collection, and it’s no wonder the brand explores new territories from time to time. New for 2024 is a range of lightweight versions of this compelling luxury sports watch. The time-and-date Aikon 42 Automatic (there’s also a pair of chronographs) comes in a mix of grade 2 and grade 5 titanium, with vibrant purple or muted grey dials and all the Aikon hallmarks that make it such a great watch: integrated design, quick-release titanium bracelet, reliable calibre ML115 (Sellita SW200) automatic movement and so on. With a price of CHF 2,700, it’s hard to pass up on such a cool watch!

For more information, please visit MauriceLacroix.com.

Quick Facts – 42mm x 11mm – grade 2 & grade 5 titanium case – fixed bezel with claws – sapphire crystal front & back – hexagonal crown – 200m water-resistant – purple or grey dial with lattice-like motif – applied markers & hands with Super-LumiNova – framed date window – calibre ML 115 (Sellita SW200 base) – automatic winding – 28,800vph – 38h power reserve – integrated titanium bracelet with folding buckle – CHF 2,700

Oris aquis chronograph

With the subtle yet well-implemented update to the time-and-date Aquis collection, it was only a matter of time before Oris would expand this new design language to other models. Next in line is the Oris Aquis Chronograph, a very capable dive watch that can now measure elapsed time down to the second. The gradient blue dial has snailed sub-dials and luminous applied markers and hands. The Calibre 771, based on the Sellita SW510, has a red lacquered rotor, runs at a rate of 28,800vph and has a 62h power reserve. The steel bracelet comes with Oris’ patented security folding clasp and extension system. It costs CHF 4,400.

For more information, please visit Oris.ch.

Quick Facts – 43.5mm x 17mm – stainless steel case, brushed & polished – unidirectional rotating bezel – ceramic insert – domed sapphire crystal – transparent caseback – screw-down crown – 300m water-resistant – gradient blue dial – applied markers & hands with Super-LumiNova – snailed sub-dials – calibre Oris 771 (based on Sellita SW510) – automatic chronograph – 28,800vph – 62h power reserve – stainless steel bracelet with patented security folding clasp & fine-adjustment system – CHF 4,400

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2 responses

  1. The least expensive watch you are recommending is more than 1,500€ and you talk about budget-friendly pieces? Ridiculous.

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  2. Yeah, it’s pretty sickening, alright. That’s a ridiculous price for a southpaw Doxa, too; also, it seems like it would be a great idea to make said watch a regular production model – not a limited edition jobby costing $1000 more than it should for a base Sellita with a nine o’clock crown.

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