You may or may not be planning a deep dive over the summer. It doesn’t really matter. You do not need to be a diver to love these high-performing, utilitarian dive watches. They make great daily wearers too and as summer is fast approaching, we have picked 10 new dive watches for 2017, with choices to suit every pocket and taste. In short, the best watches to look cool on the beach, on a boat and with your favorite summer cocktail.
Seiko Prospex Diver SPB051 and SPB053
Introduced at Baselworld 2017, the newest Seiko Prospex are offered in 42.6mm steel cases and rated water resistant to 200m. The unidirectional bezel insert to keep track of diving time features dots and numerals. The movement is the in-house 6R15 calibre with automatic winding. The SPB051 comes with a black dial and bezel insert and is complemented by a steel bracelet. The SPB053 features a blue dial and bezel and is worn on an accordion-style rubber strap. And as always with Seiko, at EUR900 and EUR 1’100, these new Prospex divers offer stunning value. The best comes from the overall style, reminiscent of Seiko’s very first dive watch, the 62Mas, reinterpreted in a modern way.
Quick facts: 42.6mm steel case with unidirectional rotating bezel – 200m water resistance – automatic in-house movement with hours, minutes, seconds and date. Steel bracelet with folding clasp or rubber strap – EUR 900 (SPB053) and EUR 1,100 (SPB051)
Oris Aquis Date 2017
The popular Oris Aquis Date has been given a bit of a refresh. The tasteful facelift still boasts superlative quality with several enhanced features. For instance, the rotating bezel is now easier to grip, the case is slimmer, the shapes have been redone, for an overall more modern and more refined look. Yet, the Aquis is still a great tool watch. The steel case is 43.5mm and three dial options are available: gradient blue, black with silver indexes, black with orange indexes.
Quick facts: 43.5mm steel case with unidirectional rotating bezel – 300m water resistance – automatic 733 caliber (Sellita SW200 base) with hours, minutes, seconds and date. Leather or rubber strap or steel bracelet with folding clasp – CHF 1,750 (rubber/leather strap) and CHF 1,950 (bracelet)
Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel / Date ref. 79730
Presented at Baselworld 2017, Tudor’s successful Heritage Black Bay is now available in a new “all steel” version, with a brushed stainless steel bezel and introduces a date function to the model for the first time. The Black Bay defining features remain, in particular, the steel 41mm case, the black domed dial with luminescent plots, the snowflake hands and an in-house movement with silicon spring and 70h power reserve. Still, the 79730 feels more modern and sleeker than the rest of the “very vintage” collection.
Quick facts: 41mm steel case with unidirectional rotating bezel – 200m water resistance – in-house MT5612 automatic movement with hours, minutes, seconds and date – steel bracelet or aged leather strap with folding clasp – EUR 3,260 (leather strap) or EUR 3,560 (bracelet)
Bell & Ross BR03-92 Diver
The Bell & Ross BR03-92 Diver features a cool 42mm satin-polished steel square case framing a round unidirectional bezel with a black aluminum insert. This surprising combination of a square case and a round bezel is just great in the metal. It is water resistant to 300m with ultra-thick sapphire crystal and case back and crown-lock protection system. It is powered by an automatic movement showing hours, minutes, seconds and date. It comes with two straps: a black rubber strap and an ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric, allowing the watch to be worn over a diving suit (thanks to a Velcro closure system).
Quick facts: 42mm steel case with unidirectional rotating bezel – 300m water resistance – automatic movement BR-CAL 302 (Sellita SW300-1 base) with hours, minutes, seconds and date – synthetic fabric and rubber strap with pin buckle – EUR 3,300
Favre Leuba Raider Harpoon
The neo-retro Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon stands out. Its bold, quirky design is enhanced by striking colors and two crowns (one is used to operate the helium relief valve). Its unique time display features a single hand, which simultaneously indicates the minutes and hours, the latter of which are displayed on a rotating disc framing the dial. A small, central indicator allows you to check at a glance that your watch is running (which is crucial for a dive watch). The massive 46mm steel case features a bi-color unidirectional bezel and is rated 500m water resistant. Perfect for those who wants to stand out of the crowd.
Quick facts: 46mm steel case with unidirectional rotating bezel – 500m water resistance with helium relief valve– automatic movement with hours, minutes and seconds (in-house module, Sellita SW200 base) – steel bracelet with folding clasp, rubber or leather strap with pin buckle – CHF 4,450 (rubber strap) or CHF 4,950 (bracelet)
S.U.F. Helsinki Vetehinen
Stepan Sarpaneva’s S.U.F. first diving watch, the Vetehinen, gets its name from a WWII submarine. The 42mm case is crafted from high-grade Finnish 316L/4435 steel with nickel and chrome mined in Finland. In another nod to Finland, the dials are made by Kari Voutilainen’s Comblémine. The Vetehinen is powered by an Eterna automatic movement and comes with both leather and rubber straps. Different, sleek, quite rough… Thus reflecting the image of the country it comes from.
Quick facts: 42mm steel case with unidirectional rotating bezel – 300m water resistance – automatic movement Eterna 3901A with hours, minutes and small seconds – rubber and leather strap with pin buckle – EUR 4,650
Omega Seamaster 600 Planet Ocean Big Blue
Based on the great Deep Black version showed last year, this 45.5mm version of the iconic Seamaster is fashioned from a single block of ceramic and sparkles with a blend of blue and orange colors. Water resistant to 600m, the Big Blue features a unidirectional bezel in ceramic, a screw-in crown, a helium escape valve and a pleasing see-through back. It is powered by the Omega Master Chronometer caliber 8906 with 24h GMT hand and coaxial escapement. Not the most discreet version of the Seamaster for sure, but one that really has its own appeal.
Quick facts: 45.5mm ceramic case with unidirectional rotating bezel – 600m water resistance with helium relief valve– automatic in-house movement with hours, minutes, seconds and 24h GMT (Master Chronometer) – rubber strap with folding buckle – CHF 10,400
Rolex Sea Dweller Ref. 126600
The ‘Crown’ generated significant buzz at Baselworld 2017 with its new, revamped and hefty Sea-Dweller. The legendary Rolex dive watch now comes with a larger 43mm case, a single red dial (the red Sea Dweller caption) and a cyclops on the date window (something never seen before on the model, and certainly the main point of discussion about this watch). It is powered by the caliber 3235 from the new generation of Rolex movements. It is still water resistant to 1,220m / 4,000ft, with a helium relief valve, ceramic rotating bezel, Triplock crown and long diving extension buckle. Rolex becomes a bit less conservative…
Quick facts: 43mm steel case with unidirectional rotating bezel – 1,220m water resistance with helium relief valve– automatic in-house 3235 movement with hours, minutes, seconds and date (superlative chronometer) – steel bracelet with folding extension buckle – CHF 10,800
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver
At SIHH2017 Audemars Piguet introduced a range of Royal Oak Offshore Divers with vibrant colors. The 42mm steel case has a rubber-clad screw-locked crown and the dial features the mega-tapisserie, pattern with gold applied markers. It is paired with luminescent coated Royal Oak hands, and an inner rotating bezel with diving scale. The watch is powered by the superb self-winding manufacture caliber 3120. Available in white/blue, blue/yellow, green/blue, yellow/blue and orange/blue, in addition to the existing black or white versions.
Quick facts: 42mm steel case with rotating inner bezel – 300m water resistance – in-house automatic Calibre 3120 with hours, minutes, seconds and date. Rubber strap with pin buckle (plus an additional rubber strap in a different color) – CHF 19,950
MB&F Horological Machine 7 Aquapod
Max Busser’s 7th Horological Machine is aquatic and inspired by a jelly-fish! This three-dimensional spherical construction is powered by a central flying tourbillon, with hours and minutes shown by two rotating discs. The 53.8mm case features a unidirectional rotating bezel and two crowns: one for setting the time, the other for winding. The perfect companion for those who loves mechanics, uncompromising design, mixed with the possibility to jump in the pool (if you dare…)
Quick facts: 53.8mm titanium or pink gold case with unidirectional rotating bezel – 50m water resistance – automatic winding central flying tourbillon with hours and minutes indication – rubber strap with folding buckle – CHF 98,000 (titanium, limited edition of 33 pieces) and CHF 118,000 (pink gold, limited edition of 66 pieces)