Salmon dial watches truly stand apart. These are unusual, unconventional and classic at the same time. High-end watches rarely venture beyond white, silver, black or blue. But salmon dials are superbly stylish, specifically if you are confident in your ability to carry off colours. Often reserved to limited or special editions, they add a degree of elegance with a twist while remaining understated.
The salmon dial trend has been brewing for years but it has really picked up momentum over the past few months. Here are five of the most recent examples.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Salmon Dial
It isn’t the first Extra-Thin RO Jumbo with a salmon dial (remember the Jubilee 14802St model) but it is the first time that a pink gold-toned “petite tapisserie” dial is matched with an 18k white gold case and bracelet. The watch is still 39mm in diameter and just 8mm thick. It houses the self-winding extra-thin 2121 calibre. This subtle and elegant take on the Jumbo is boutique exclusive and limited to 75 units only in 2019 so it might be pretty difficult to get your hands on one. And when looking at this gorgeous dial, you can easily understand why it is so desirable.
Quick Facts: 39mm white gold case and bracelet – water-resistant to 50m – automatic calibre 2121 ultra-thin – hours, minutes, date – CHF 55,700 – Boutique exclusive. For more information, visit www.audemarspiguet.com
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Pink Gold Dial
At the SIHH 2019, A. Lange & Sohne presented a new version of the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. Crafted from solid pink gold with elegant metallic reflections, the new dial creates a whole new perception of this iconic model. Indeed, instead of using a lacquer or classic paint, ALS decided that the best way to obtain the salmon colour was to use a solid material, without treatment or coating – and in this case, a matte finished solid 18k gold plate. Turning the watch over, the exhibition caseback offers a breathtaking view of the intricate and perfectly finished mechanism. The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon with Pink Gold Dial is a limited edition of 100 pieces.
Quick Facts: 41.5mm 18k white gold case – hand-wound calibre L952.2 – hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, outsize date and moon phase indication, tourbillon, flyback chronograph, power reserve indication – alligator strap with folding buckle – EUR 285,000 – Limited edition of 100 pieces. For more information, visit www.alange-soehne.com
Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automatic Salmon Dial
Last fall, the Dutch “horological brothers” released their first automatic watch, the 1941 Principia. The 39.5mm case features hollowed, concave recesses and convex surfaces. It houses a new movement finished to the Grönefeld’s ambitious standards with steel bridges and a 22K solid gold rotor. Several dial options are available, including the elegant gold-plated salmon dial pictured below and matched with blued hands – a classic theme for the brothers, which proves that a salmon dial can make a simple watch very, very attractive.
Quick facts: 39.5mm steel or white gold case – water-resistant to 30m – automatic calibre with hours, minutes and small seconds – leather strap with pin buckle – EUR 29,950 in steel, EUR 38,750 in white gold. For more information, please visit www.gronefeld.com
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph Sockeye
Czapek has added several new versions to the Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph collection, including this model dubbed “Sockeye” featuring a hand-guilloché salmon dial with contrasting blue flinqué sub-dials. The 41.5mm steel case houses the automatic SHX3 calibre, a high-frequency integrated chronograph with vertical clutch and column-wheel. This new colour scheme adds some exclusivity and originality to this already beautiful watch.
Quick facts: 41.5mm steel case – water-resistant to 50m – automatic SHX3 calibre – hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph- alligator strap with folding buckle – CHF 24,000 – Limited edition of 18 pieces. For more information, visit www.czapek.com
Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph Salmon Dial
At the SIHH 2019, Montblanc turned to the rich history of Minerva to release this alluring mono-pusher chronograph, fitted with an elegant salmon dial. Presented in a 40mm steel case, the Heritage Pulsograph is powered by the superb hand-wound chronograph calibre MB M13.21 with column-wheel, which is visible through the caseback. The dial is domed and features different colours and finishes. It is framed by a blue pulsometer scale. The dauphine hands are bent according to the curvature of the dial.
Quick facts: 40mm steel case – water-resistant to 50m – hand-wound MB M1321 calibre – hours, minutes, seconds and chronograph- alligator strap with folding buckle – EUR 28,000 – Limited edition of 100 pieces. For more information, visit www.montblanc.com