The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper a.k.a The Salmon-Steel Octo

The third record for thinness in the successful Octo Finissimo series by Bulgari, the Octo Finissimo Automatic started its life in the most monochromatic and sleek attire possible – sandblasted titanium over a tone-on-tone dial, a signature look for the collection. However, since its introduction in 2017, the model has seen multiple variations of colours and materials, specifically since the introduction of the Mk2 version with its satin-brushed case and 100m water-resistance. Following our presentation earlier today of a new yellow gold edition, it’s time now to introduce the Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper Automatic, with a colour combination that is one of our favourites. Salmon-steel for the win!

Salmon dial over a steel case is a classic of the Swiss watch industry that has been around for decades. Usually the apanage of classic dress watches and vintage-inspired chronographs, it finds a spot here in the context of an edgy, ultra-thin take on the luxury sports watch, the now-emblematic Octo Finissimo. But is it really a first for the collection…? Well, if you search closely, you’ll see that this exact reference was discreetly pre-launched in 2023 as a 50-piece limited edition for the US market, but now finds its way within the permanent collection.

What we’re looking at is basically a new dial on the Octo Finissimo Automatic S, also known as the Mk2 generation of this watch. So, just a new dial colour indeed, but sometimes you don’t need more than that to make a great watch. The specifications, at least regarding the case, are identical to previous versions. Thus, it retains a multi-faceted stainless steel case with brushed surfaces and polished accents (interestingly the case is here made of 904L stainless steel), enhancing the architectural look of the collection. Measuring 40mm in diameter, this watch is 6.3mm in thickness, compared to 5.15mm for the inaugural models. The reason for that is the increased and highly welcome 100m water-resistance (30m in the past), possible thanks to a thicker crystal, some work on the caseback and a screw-down crown.

What matters with the Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper is the dial, presented here in a pink-salmon (more pink than the rose gold treatment used on many salmon watches) metallic tone that Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (head of design at Bulgari) explains to be different in its approach. “Here, the metallic salmon tone draws its inspiration not from the usual vintage aesthetic prized by collectors, but from the very roots of Italian art, that of the 16th century, and more precisely from a disruptive movement of the time, called Mannerism.” The result is a rather saturated pink dial with a flair that suits the sophisticated look of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo. Matching the case, this Tuscan Copper dial is paired with rhodium-plated hands and indexes, creating nice reflections over the brushed coppery surface.

Inside the case is the Calibre BVL 138, an ultra-thin (2.23mm in height) automatic movement wound by a platinum micro-rotor. This well-known engine boasts a comfortable 60h power reserve and runs at a 3Hz frequency. Large and flat, it is decorated with Geneva stripes. The Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper is worn on a 904L steel bracelet with brushed and polished surfaces, closed by a nicely integrated folding clasp.

Available as part of the permanent collection, the salmon-toned Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper Automatic will be priced at EUR 15,000. For more details, please visit www.bulgari.com.