In less than ten years, Bulgari’s ultra-thin legion of Octo Finissimo watches has marched across the watch landscape conquering eight world records for its incredibly thin mechanical wonders. However, its imperial ambitions stretch beyond the merely mechanical thanks to Fabrizio Buonamassa’s bold, contemporary design language that reflects the brand’s Roman origins. No stranger to collaborations, the dial of the Octo Finissimo Automatic has been reinterpreted by Japanese architects Kazuyo Sejima and Tadao Ando with refined minimalism. However, the 2022 collaboration with Laurent Picciotto of Chronopassion and tattoo artist Mo Coppoletta notched up the edginess with a fully laser-engraved tattoo motif covering the case, dial and bracelet. The formula seems to have worked because Bulgari is back for its third round with Picciotto and Coppoletta with this rose gold Octo Finissimo Tattoo Fuoco.
The new Octo Finissimo Tattoo Fuoco collaboration is, in fact, the third and follows the earlier Aria and Aqua models inspired by the natural elements of Air and Water. Fuoco, which means ‘fire’ in Italian, differs from the matte sandblasted titanium cases of Aria and Aqua with its radiant rose gold case tattooed by Mo Coppoletta with flames.
While it might represent the ‘simplest’ member of the Octo Finissimo family, the record-breaking Automatic made its debut in 2017, three years after the commotion sparked by the world’s thinnest tourbillon in 2014 followed by the skinniest minute repeater in 2016. Flaunting the title of the world’s thinnest automatic movement, the Octo Finissimo Automatic relies on a 2.23mm thick automatic movement.
Inspired by architectural elements of the Roman Empire, the intriguing case of the Octo plays it both ways and manages to capture Rome’s classical past in a strikingly contemporary key. With a thickness of just 5.15mm, the dynamic octagonal geometry of the 40mm rose gold case has been decorated with a swirling, flame motif. With such a lean profile, the laser-engraved flames enveloping the case, dial and bracelet almost look like they are tattooed onto the wrist. The round bezel surmounting the octagon and the case flanks are sandblasted for contrast and the crown is set with a black stone.
With no indices or branding, Coppoletta’s design takes advantage of the swirling pattern on the left to indicate the running seconds. A transparent caseback provides a perfect view of the extra-thin mechanical self-winding movement BVL 138, with a platinum micro-rotor. This Finissimo calibre is decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes, chamfering, and circular-graining. It provides 60 hours of power reserve and operates at 21,600vph.
Availability & Price
The Octo Finissimo Tattoo Fuoco is a limited edition of 15 pieces and is available exclusively from Chronopassion, Paris. It retails for EUR 60,000, and as Laurent Picciotto points out, demand is on fire.