Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection, a Trio of Watches With a New Perpetual Calendar Movement

Founded in 1884 and celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, Breitling is no stranger to innovation and important milestones. In 1915, it launched the first wrist-worn chronograph with an independent pusher. In 1934, it patented a watch with a second independent pusher. In 1969, it participated in the creation of one of the first automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomatic or Calibre 11. In 2009, the brand released its first in-house-developed movement, the Calibre B01. Today, it’s time for yet another important movement to be presented, the Calibre B19, the first in-house perpetual calendar movement of Breitling… And yes, there are watches to be equipped with it too.

The Breitling Calibre B19

In-house manufacturing became important for Breitling back in 2009, when the brand introduced the calibre B01, its first internally developed and produced movement. This movement, an automatic, integrated chronograph with column-wheek and vertical clutch, opened the door to further developments. First, it was adopted by Tudor to power its chronograph watches in an unexpected yet clever alliance. The B01 evolved to become the B02 with a 24-hour function, the B03 with a split-seconds mechanism, and the B04 with a GMT function. Now it’s time to welcome the Calibre B19, a perpetual calendar – and a chronograph too, of course.

Perpetual calendars aren’t new at Breitling. Over the years, we’ve seen multiple Breitling watches combining a chronograph with a QP… but most of the time as the combination of an ETA base with a Dubois Depraz module on top. Breitling also had watches with a so-called 1461 movement, which required only one correction every 4 years but took into account all other variations of the calendar including including the months of February with 28 days (somehow a mid-step between an annual calendar and a perpetual calendar).

With the Calibre B19, Breitling unveils its first perpetual calendar movement, which had to be combined with the brand’s speciality, a chronograph. The base is familiar, as shared with the B01, however, multiple upgrades have been applied to the movement, including an extended power reserve of 96 hours (compared to 70 hours for the B01). The perpetual calendar, which sits on top of the movement, displays its indications together with the chronograph in sub-counters – date and 30-minute at 3 o’clock, month and leap year at 6 o’clock, day and small seconds at 9 o’clock, moon phases at 12 o’clock, with a central chronograph seconds. The indications can be adjusted thanks to pushers in the casebands. The movement is, as expected, chronometer-certified by COSC.

Movement specifications:

• Breitling Manufacture Caliber B19
• 30mm x 8.53mm
• self-winding mechanical, bidirectional with ball bearing, 22k red gold rotor
• column-wheel, vertical clutch, integrated architecture with perpetual calendar
• 374 components
• 28,800 vibrations/hour or 4Hz

For the occasion of the 140th anniversary and this special trio of watches, the back reveals a solid-gold rotor decorated with an engraving of Breitling’s historic Montbrillant Manufactory in La Chaux-de-Fonds. And this new movement finds its place within 3 classic models of the brand’s collection, all dressed in red gold cases with dials that are playing on gold and black contrasts, and each limited to 140 pieces.

The Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary

Unsurprisingly for the launch of a perpetual calendar, the first of the three new limited editions is based on the brand’s most classic and elegant watch, the Premier. First launched in 1943, this collection took the chronograph out of the cockpit and into society. The modern vision of the Premier is a classically proportioned watch with a smooth bezel and box-shaped sapphire crystal. It is here presented in a 42mm case with a 50mm length – not a small watch – and a thickness of 15.6mm, yet with comfortable water resistance of 100m. The strap is black alligator leather with elegant tone-on-tone stitching and an 18k gold folding buckle.

The dial of this Premier B19 Datora retains the model’s classic applied Arabic numerals in gold, over a black base. Aside from the aforementioned counters and indications, the gold syringe hands are combined with a gold-toned minute track and a black tachymeter scale, resulting in a bold but elegant-ish watch.

Quick facts: 42mm x 15.6mm 18k rose gold – sapphire crystal front and back, 100m water-resistant – black dial with tone-on-tone chronograph counters – calibre B19 – black alligator leather strap – limited to 140 pieces – reference RB19401A1B1P1 – CHF 55,000 / EUR 55,000 / USD 59,000

The Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

Second in line for this 140th anniversary collection of perpetual calendar watches is a handsome, bold and complex take on the brand’s iconic pilot’s chronograph, the Navitimer. Presented here in a red gold case, it retains the collection’s emblematic slide rule bezel, but adds a strong touch of luxury. Considering the complex display and movement, Breitling has here opted for the intermediate case size, with a 43mm diameter and 15.62mm thickness. The length of the case remains fairly controlled at 49mm and the 30m water-resistance is classic for a Navitimer.

The dial of this Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar is the real attention-grabbing element here, with its gold-coloured sunray-brushed base and tone-on-tone counters. The dial is framed by a black slide-rule, matching the alligator leather strap with contrasting topstitching and an 18k gold folding buckle.

Quick facts: 43mm x 15.6mm 18k rose gold – sapphire crystal front and back, 30m water-resistant – gold-toned dial with tone-on-tone chronograph counters – calibre B19 – black alligator leather strap – limited to 140 pieces – reference RB19101A1H1P1 – CHF 55,000 / EUR 55,000 / USD 59,000

The Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

Last but not least, we up the game once more in boldness and character with the Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar, the sportiest of all 3 watches… First launched in 1983 as the official watch of Italy’s aerobatics team, the Chronomat is a strong watch with a rotating bezel, screwed pushers and a distinctive design with four raised rider tabs at the 15-minute marks on the bezel. The 44mm case is once again made of red gold and features a black ceramic insert, as well as black contrasting elements on the crown and pushers. This large watch is worn on a rouleaux-inspired rubber strap with an 18k red gold folding clasp.

Even though the mechanics are identical, the Calibre B19 is here presented in an openworked version with a sapphire dial revealing its QP. The semi-skeletonized dial nevertheless retains great legibility with plain sub-counters and is framed by a tachymeter scale.

Quick facts: 44mm x 15.35mm 18k rose gold – sapphire crystal front and back, screw-locked crown and pushers, black ceramic bezel – 100m water-resistant – grey openworked dial with tone-on-tone chronograph counters – calibre B19 – black rubber leather strap – limited to 140 pieces – reference RB19301A1G1S1 – CHF 55,000 / EUR 55,000 / USD 59,000

For more details, please visit www.breitling.com.