The Compact, Hand-Wound Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 for the 250th Anniversary

As we’ve explained already, Breguet, one of the most important brands in the industry, is celebrating this year its 250th anniversary, as its founder, the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, first registered his company in 1775. With this in mind, we can tell you that Breguet has already released several special edition watches, all done in its dedicated 18k Breguet gold alloy, and will be delivering more throughout the year. The celebrations started with the Classique Souscription 2025, a tribute to the famous Souscription pocket watches. Then came the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035, a tribute to the automatic watch. It’s now time to look at another important side of the Breguet family, aviation. And for that, we have two stunning, compact, hand-wound, historically-inspired Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075. 

Background

As I have explained in this in-depth article about the new generation of Breguet Type XX and Type 20, there’s more to the Breguet family than watchmaking. If A.L. Breguet is often seen as a pioneer of modern horology, Louis Breguet (1880-1955), a descendant of A.L. Breguet, was one of the pioneers of aviation in France. He founded the Société d’Aviation Louis Breguet, exporting his planes to multiple countries around the globe and participating in the foundation of Air France. He also kept an excellent relationship with the Brown family that had acquired the watchmaking company in 1870. It was, therefore, only natural that aircraft manufacturer Louis Breguet turned to the Browns to purchase watches from the Breguet watchmaking company.

Then, back in the early 1950s, the French Air Force was looking to equip its pilots with a chronograph wristwatch meeting the following technical specifications. This resulted in a codename Type 20 (military) or Type XX (civilian), a black-dialed chronograph with retour en vol (flyback) function and rotating bezel. Several companies competed and won contracts, which meant that several brands would produce Type XX and Type 20 watches – Dodane, Auricoste, Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa and, of course, Breguet. For the latter, the prototypes submitted by the company in 1952 were approved in 1953 by the Service Technique Aéronautique. In 1954, the French Air Force placed an order for 1,100 military Type 20 watches, which were delivered between 1955 and 1959.

Over the years, 4 generations of Type XX will be produced, including the famous return in the mid-1990s with the 3800ST and the current generation, introduced as a 42mm automatic watch with in-house, high-frequency chronograph movement in 2 editions, Type XX and Type 20. A gold model followed last year, inspired by one of three solid gold prototypes in 1955, with blue enamel numerals on the bezel, such as the number 1780 you can see above, which is now the property of the Breguet Museum. This is once again a source of inspiration for the models released as part of the 250th anniversary collection… Except that this time, things come much closer to the original versions of the 1950s. And that is quite pleasant, to say the least.

The 2 new Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075

Besides the obvious historical inspiration and the tribute to the rare gold prototypes of 1955, Breguet is also using this celebratory year to pay homage to the other side of the Family, namely the aviation pioneer Louis Breguet and the aviator duo Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte, the first people to fly from Paris to New York, who achieved this feat in just over 37 hours from the 1st to the 2nd of September, 1930, onboard a Breguet 19TR Super Bidon (a modified version of the a bomber and reconnaissance aircraft widely used for long-distance flights, with larger fuel tank). This followed the solo flight from New York to Paris by the American Charles Lindbergh in 1927.

For the occasion of this year’s celebrations, Breguet releases not one but two watches; one as a faithful tribute to the past, the other as a more unusual take on the concept with a surprising dial, and both clad in 18k Breguet gold alloy, as all watches for the 250th anniversary. The two new Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 are deep adaptations of the 4th generation of the pilot’s chronograph launched in 2023. In fact, these come closer in style and proportions to the unique Type XX Big Eye 2065ST made for Only Watch 2021. Why that…? Because we’re looking here at two drastically reduced, slimmed-down, streamlined watches. The 2023 models were 42mm, automatic, with a date and fairly large on the wrist. The 2 new Type XX Chronograph 2075 change all of that.

Let’s start with the case, shared by both editions, which retains the classic look of 1950s civilian Type XX watches, with a bidirectional bezel with a 12-hour scale and short, slightly twisted lugs. But the connection with the past goes stronger in proportion, as the two new models now measure only 38.3mm in diameter, the same as the old watches. The thickness, thanks to a hand-wound movement, has also been reduced to 13.2mm (vs. 14.1mm for the automatic 42mm models), despite a thick box-shaped sapphire crystal on top. The case, made of 18k Breguet gold (a combination of gold enriched with silver, copper and palladium) is satin-finished with polished accents, features a screwed caseback with sapphire crystal, a flat crown and is water-resistant to 50m.

And yes, it will be absolutely fantastic on the wrist… Compact, retro-styled, comfortable, just a bit thick (in a good way) and short. It is the case we’ve been waiting for with the 4th generation of Type XX, the one that should have been made at first, if you ask me… Time will tell if a steel or titanium version will be launched soon (fingers crossed). The only difference between the two editions, regarding the case, is the numerals on the bezel, picked up in black on the non-limited black edition, and in blue on the limited silver model.

Let’s now talk about the dials. The first of the two versions, with its matte black dial and offered as a special, non-limited model, is an obvious release. Classic, expected but simply great looking. The dial is here made in anodised aluminium, a tribute to Louis Breguet, who pioneered the use of Duralumin (an alloy containing 95% aluminium) sheet metal for his aircraft. This can be seen with a discreet “Al” mention between 7 and 8 o’clock. The rest of the dial is as traditional as it can be, for the best. We thus have a classic “big-eye” bi-compax layout, with an oversized 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock. The hands, made in 18k gold, are syringe-shaped, and the smaller minute hand is pear-shaped and luminous. The luminous Arabic numerals, in beige SLN, are pad-printed, and the only mention on the dial is the applied gold Breguet logo.

The other version, limited to 250 pieces, is a much more surprising option, as it doesn’t draw inspiration from a past model. The dial is made of solid 925 silver (like the gold 1955 prototype) but with a brushed silver colour and an unprecedented layout for the pilot’s chronograph. And while it surely looks quite amazing, it is a bold choice from the brand. The “Ag925” mention brings an idea of what to expect, with a vertically brushed silver-toned surface on which are applied baton markers and Arabic numerals. This version is also distinguished by the presence of a tachymeter scale on the periphery, a precision seconds track and oversized pencil hands in gold. The central seconds is blued steel and lumed. And it also comes with a 30-minute counter, with all tracks and markings in blue.

Under the sapphire back is a new in-house calibre, based on the automatic calibre 728 introduced by Breguet in 2023, within the 42mm Type XX and Type 20. The main difference is obviously the move from an automatic winding to manually wound movements, as the black edition comes with Calibre 7279 while the silver model features Calibre 7278 (the difference being the 15-minute vs. 30-minute counter). That said, Breguet has kept the modern architecture of the movement, with a 5Hz frequency (36,000vph) and a silicon hairspring, escape wheel and pallet-lever horns. As you’d expect, these movements are using a column wheel as well as a flyback function (as it should in a Type XX) and a vertical clutch. The power reserve is rated at 60 hours on both movements, with a single barrel.

For the occasion of the celebrations, the movements are gilded in Breguet gold. These large calibres (32mm) nicely fill the watch, and Breguet makes good use of the large upper bridge with a hand-engraved decoration. It depicts the Breguet 19 aircraft in full flight, accompanied by the precise route taken in 1930, the European and North American landmasses’ frosted finishing contrasts against the smooth Atlantic Ocean. The rest of the movement is nicely finished with snailing, bevelling and circular-graining. The column wheel is treated in black DLC.

Availabilty & Price

The black Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 is worn on a gradient black calfskin strap with an 18K Breguet gold pin buckle. It is released as a special 250th anniversary edition, but it is not limited. It is priced at CHF 36,500 (incl. taxes). The silver dial Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 is worn on a gradient blue calfskin strap and an 18K Breguet gold pin buckle. This edition is limited to 250 individually numbered pieces and is priced at CHF 38,000 (incl. taxes).

As a side note, new CEO Gregory Kissling confirms that the Type XX and Type 20 collection “will evolve in terms of diameters, finishes and materials.” Will this mean that smaller, 38mm hand-wound versions in steel (or titanium) will be released at a certain point, using the same style as the black/gold model above? I can only pray for that… For more details, please visit www.breguet.com.