The New Gold & Ceramic Breguet Type XX Chronograph (Incl. Video)

Probably one of the most emblematic pilot’s chronographs around, and an icon from the Breguet collection, the Type XX was revamped last year, with historic design cues and a high-end flyback movement. The comeback of this important and historically relevant model was made with two watches, one with military inspiration, the Type 20, and one with civilian design elements, the Type XX, both housed in stainless steel cases with classic matte black dials. This year, the classic French retour en vol chronograph is back in a civilian version that mixes gold and ceramic, a first for the collection. Here’s the new gold Breguet Type XX reference 2067. 

The Type 20 or Type XX – the way the name is spelt has its importance – might be one of the most important models of the modern era of Breguet, but it’s not actually a watch that was created by Breguet. The Type 20 is the result of a set of military specifications. But we’ll come back to this in a few. You might wonder why Breguet, a brand associated with classic high-end watches and guilloché dials, has a collection of pilot’s chronographs. The answer is rather interesting and fully explained in these two in-depth articles covering both the history of the model and its comeback last year with the new generation of Type XX. Also, make sure to check out our video review at the top of this article.

Fast forward to 2023, and a brand new generation of pilot’s flyback chronograph, available in two versions, either inspired by past military models with two counters and a fluted bezel – the Type 20 – or civilian models with a 12-hour bezel and three counters – the Type XX. We’re looking at watches with strong vintage inspiration in the design – indeed, these are much closer to the original 1950s versions in terms of design – but with modern mechanics and contemporary proportions. The case, available until now in steel, is 42mm, there’s a date on the dial and the movement is an impressive in-house development.

This year Breguet enlarges the collection with a high-end version made of gold. And like last year’s steel versions, it draws inspiration from the past. Lesser known than its steel counterparts and far more exclusive, Breguet did produce three solid gold prototypes in 1955, with blue enamel numerals on the bezel, such as the number 1780 you can see here, which is now the property of the Breguet Museum. 

Once again using a vintage watch as a base for a modern recreation, Breguet brings a new gold Type XX, based on the civilian model, with a 12-hour bezel and three-register dial – using the civilian Type XX base makes sense considering the luxurious vocation of this gold model. The difference isn’t only for the material, but also for the bezel. The pink gold case now features a blue ceramic insert with a gold 12-hour scale, offering a nice contrast of colours. The overall design is the same as the steel models, with a rather large 42mm diameter, a thickness of 14mm and a comfortable 100m water-resistance. As for all civilian versions, the crown is flat.

The main evolution concerns the dial. While the steel models came with a black dial focused on contrast and legibility, the gold Breguet Type XX adds more reflections and depth with its deep blue colour, a sunray brushed finish and contrasting gold elements. The numerals, still luminous, are now applied and so is the Breguet logo. The hands are gold-coloured too but have a new syringe shape. the sub-dials are recessed with a snailed pattern. The oversized minute counter has been kept too, and so does the date window at 4:30 – I must admit, it’s less disturbing on this gold model.

Inside the case is the modern, and high-tech in-house calibre 728. An automatic, integrated chronograph with a flyback function, it features a column wheel and a vertical clutch. It comes with a balance spring, an escape wheel and pallet-lever horns in silicon, for anti-magnetic properties. The power reserve is rated at 60 hours. An interesting feature, this movement beats at 5hz and comes with patented activation and zero-resetting systems for the pushers, which transmit an even force to movement, whatever the pressure applied. This large movement is finely decorated too. It might not appear at first sight, as Breguet kept the finishing rather discreet, but you’ll find snailing, bevelling, circular-graining and other visible decorations on the components.

The gold Breguet Type XX comes with a blue alligator strap, equipped with a practical interchangeability system. And if you want to give an even sportier look to your watch, Breguet includes a blue and white textile NATO strap. It’ll be part of the permanent collection and priced at CHF 35,000.

With this new watch, Breguet adds a touch of luxury to the classic Type XX, with a model that’s not just a change of material. This new edition has its own personality and opens the doors to more evolutions. On this topic, let me quote the brand’s CEO to say that there will be more models to come, including different case dimensions, different materials or even complications that would have to remain relevant with a pilot’s watch. So, let’s imagine a 39mm titanium Type XX without a date…? Or maybe a dual-time version. Personally, I’d love to see that.

For more details, please visit www.breguet.com.