Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Superbly Elegant new 35mm Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357
A modern revival of the reference 3350 for the 225th of the tourbillon
Tourbillon and Breguet are two words that belong in the same story. Indeed, on 26 June 1801, and thus exactly 225 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for his invention, an anti-gravity device that he would name the tourbillon. And today, the brand celebrates this crucial invention by releasing a series of new models, all equipped with a tourbillon. And among them is this new Classique Tourbillon 7357, a stunningly elegant new model housed in a 35mm case, and that pays tribute to the whole important reference 3350, the first modern tourbillon model created by none other than Daniel Roth, during the revival of Breguet.
The story of the tourbillon
Perhaps the invention most people associate with Abraham-Louis Breguet is the tourbillon regulator, which he patented on June 26, 1801, or on 7 Messidor An IX, to use the French Republican calendar in force at the time. Designed to counter the problem of gravity affecting the regularity of watches, which at the time were worn not on the wrist but vertically in a pocket, Breguet’s idea was to install the escapement inside a mobile carriage that performed a complete rotation every minute. He thus secured a patent in Paris for his “watch compensating for all of the inequalities that may be found in the balance wheel and mainspring.”
Back then, Breguet used the word tourbillon referring to the meaning used by Descartes in his philosophy, that of a planetary system rotating on a single axis. During his lifetime, Abraham-Louis Breguet created 40 tourbillons until 1829, including 35 watches.
From a watchmaker’s perspective, designing and crafting a fine tourbillon is a challenging and delicate art and is often regarded as one of watchmaking’s highest accomplishments. From a technical perspective, the regulator of the watch needs to be mounted in a revolving cage. The gear train architecture is traditional. Energy is stored within the barrel containing the mainspring that powers the movement, transmitting the motion to the wheels. However, the regulator design is different: the escape wheel pinion traditionally turns around an intermediate wheel with a fixed toothing, therefore driving the cage housing the escapement and balance wheel. The tourbillon cage, which generally rotates once per minute, is a fascinating feat of miniature engineering with often over 50 parts all weighing as little as possible.
Today, the name tourbillon, which Abraham-Louis Breguet gave to his invention, is known universally in the watch world. The tourbillon has long established itself as part of the vocabulary of modern horological design. Besides its technical reason for being, its captivating motion is also a huge part of its appeal. And as you would expect, it still holds a place of choice in Breguet’s collection, with creations that are both a nod to the past and a look toward the future… The imprint left by Abraham-Louis Breguet was such, technically and aesthetically, that his successors have never deviated from the line drawn, while they have maintained a fascinating ability to innovate.
The Heritage, the Tourbillon 3350
Fast forward to the late 1970s, and the revival of Breguet as a brand, under the direction of the Chaumet brothers. Daniel Roth, a talented watchmaker, was appointed technical-artistic director of the newly acquired Breguet brand. His mission was to bring back the brand to its former glory and to infuse wristwatch collections with the classic style of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Among the multiple watches that the Chaumet brothers and Daniel Roth created is one of crucial importance, specifically for today’s topic, the Tourbillon reference 3350. This was the first tourbillon wristwatch produced by the historic name…
Released in 1989, this watch was the pinnacle of the brand back in the day, paying tribute to the invention of its founder. Housed in a 36mm fluted yellow gold, white gold or platinum case, the 3350 featured all of Breguet’s hallmarks: fluted caseband, solid gold guilloche dial, Breguet hands, satin-finished chapter ring with an engraving of Breguet’s secret signature. Powered by the calibre 558 made by Lemania (which will then be integrated into Breguet and become the base for its manufacture), the watch features a distinctive stepped dial with the tourbillon cage positioned at 6 o’clock, with three small seconds hands, each indicating 20 seconds. The tourbillon was held in place by a large transversal bridge. A highly important watch, for Breguet and the whole industry, which is today the source of inspiration for a new Classique Tourbillon.
The Classique Tourbillon 7357
As said, Breguet is releasing four new tourbillon models today, to celebrate the 225th anniversary of its founder’s most famous invention. And while we will cover the three other watches in a dedicated article, one deserves more attention, both for its historical relevance and because it looks, let’s go straight to the point, absolutely fabulous… A modernised version of the 3350, housed in a 35mm case, with tons of guilloché patterns, restrained, classic elegance as it should be on a Breguet, a handsomely decorated movement, and a touch of modernity (the touch of Gregory Kissling, the recently-appointed CEO of the brand)… Let’s discover the Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357.
First, let’s talk about proportions. While most revival watches tend to be larger than their predecessors, for once, Breguet goes the opposite direction. The original Tourbillon 3350, a 36mm watch, was already not what you can call oversized. The new Classique Tourbillon 7357 is even more compact, at 35mm in diameter. But that’s not all, as we’re looking at a thin watch too, with a slender profile of 9.2mm, and an overall length of 43mm. Handsome retro size, which sits beautifully on the wrist.
The case of the 7357 is to be seen as a modernised take on the Classique collection, as it mixed traditional elements, such as the domed bezel and the fluted casebands, with redesigned lugs – no more straight lugs welded to the case, but more ergonomic elements that are curved and don’t feature the old-school screw strap attachment (like it or not, it’s a matter of taste. I prefer the new ones). Overall, this new tourbillon draws inspiration from the 250th anniversary models, in particular the Souscription watch.
The Classique Tourbillon 7357 is released in two editions. One, in platinum, plays on classic monochromatic tones and shades of grey, for a slightly technical look. The other, made of 18K Breguet gold, offers a warmer, more luxurious touch with its silvered dial. On both, just like the old 3350, the dial is divided into two zones. The upper one, home to the time display, is finished with a barleycorn pattern around the edge and a clous de Paris guilloché in the centre of the applied chapter ring – the latter, in 18K Breguet gold (rhodium-plated or not), features a classic filet sauté pattern and Breguet Arabic numerals. Time is read through Breguet hands finished in a Bleu de France treatment, a colour reserved for exceptional timepieces.
The lower part of the dial, recessed, is home to a tourbillon – not that it is overly large, but in a 35mm watch, it feels larger than it measures. It positioned a few tenths of a millimetre below the level of the dial, directly on the mainplate, so as to showcase it more effectively and lend depth to the composition. Beating at a slow pace of 2.5Hz, like the old reference 3350, it is equipped with three arms of its seconds hand that are delicately curved to follow this contour. The single cross-through bridge has been redesigned as a double, rounded-off, polished “arched” bridge, still held in place by two large blued screws.
The back of the watch, even though not showing much technical elements, is equally textured and decorated. The new calibre 187B retains its predecessor’s fundamental features, being fairly large for the case diameter, hand-wound, and featuring a classic tourbillon architecture (not a flying version). The calibre has, however, been significantly optimised with modern technologies, such as a Breguet Nivachron balance-spring and a silicon escapement, as well as an extended power reserve of 60 hours. And for the occasion, Breguet has developed a new decoration, a unique guilloché pattern inspired by the Dent de Vaulion: the iconic peak of the Vallée de Joux, birthplace of the Manufacture.
Finally, the two lower appliques pay tribute to A.-L. Breguet, his invention and its contemporary legacy with the French inscriptions: “Brevet du 7 Messidor An 9” and “Tourbillon 225e Anniversaire”.
Availability & Price
The platinum version of the Tourbillon 7357 is worn on a grey calfskin leather strap, while the Breguet gold edition comes on a soft beige one. Both are closed by a three-part folding clasp matching the case’s material. The two Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 are released as part of the permanent collection, and are priced at CHF 154,000 in platinum and CHF 140,000 in gold.
For more details, please visit www.breguet.com.
