The Stealthy Bell & Ross BR-X5 Black Titanium

For a brand that has consolidated its image on tool watches inspired by cockpit instruments, the choice of material forms an integral part of the identity of its watches. The BR-X5, the larger, more resilient, more radical brother of the BR-05 luxury sports watch, returns this year with a new lightweight titanium case. Still delivering the same time, date, and power reserve indications as the first BR-X5, the matte grey titanium case gives the watch an understated yet more powerful technical look.

The launch of the BR-05 in 2019 marked a turning point in Bell & Ross’ trajectory as the brand’s first luxury sports watch with the much-touted, but often hard to define, ‘urban’ touch. Sticking to the ‘round dial in a square case’ design with four screws on the bezel that is the backbone of this brand, the mission was to tame its dashboard instrument-watch spirit and make it more chic. To do so, the case was reworked with more refined, rounder angles and fitted with an integrated bracelet.

A couple of years later, the Parisian brand introduced a more muscular version of the BR-05. In a similar move to the Royal Oak’s edgier and more formidable sibling, the Royal Oak Offshore, in 2022, Bell & Ross introduced the BR-X5, a more radical and technical model equipped with a new manufacture movement by Kenissi. Following its debut in steel cases with date and power reserve indications, the BR-X5 has embraced different case materials, such as green luminescent fibreglass and carbon fiber.

The 41mm case’s multi-component architecture benefits from titanium’s lightweight, performance-driven properties. Used widely in aeronautics, titanium is hypoallergenic, non-corrosive, non-magnetic, and three times lighter than steel. Crafted entirely in grey, grade 2 titanium, the case and bracelet of the BR-X5 Black Titanium have been micro-sandblasted to produce the non-reflective, matte, slightly grainy finish. Robust to the core, the complex 12-part sandwich construction is assembled around a waterproof container containing the manufacture movement. The signature square bezel and sapphire glass are fixed to two titanium plates to form the top and bottom of the case, secured with four screws. This construction guarantees the 100m water-resistance and makes the case extremely resilient.

The thickness remains unchanged at 12.8mm but is visually attenuated on both sides of the case with hollowed-out areas. Fitted with powerful crown guards, the left case flank and guards are hollowed to diminish the bulk, while the right side features a continuous indentation highlighting the bold case shape.

The sloping flange of the matte black dial creates a sensation of depth. Relatively compact, the dial has long, rounded, applied hour markers extending from the chapter ring to the centre of the dial. Time is indicated by rounded baton hour and minute hands. A circular power reserve indicator with a 3-day mention on the left is accompanied by a triple-digit date window on the right. The indices, hour and minute, and power reserve hands (barring the central seconds) are all treated with Super-LumiNova, which produces a green emission in the dark.

Matching the attributes of the BR-X5 Black Titanium’s robust case construction is the solid BR.CAL 323 automatic movement. Like all models in the BR-X5 collection, the manufacture movement is made by Kenissi (the same base used by Tudor, Breitling, Chanel and Norqain). This automatic movement delivers a beefy 70-hour power reserve and is a COSC-certified chronometer. The rapid date correction device and stop-seconds function for precision time settings are a plus, and the watch comes with a 5-year guarantee.

Availability & Price

The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Black Titanium on an integrated titanium bracelet with a microblasted titanium folding buckle retails for EUR 9,900. It can also be ordered with an interchangeable black rubber strap with a ventilated central part for EUR 8,900. It is now available from the brand and retailers and is part of the permanent collection.

For more details, please visit bellross.com.