Baltic Gets Dressy and Refined with the new Prismic Collection

A still relatively young brand that has always infused vintage flair in its watches, Baltic and its founder, Etienne Malec, have a keen eye for design and retro charm. Whether it’s a classic dive watch, a pair of sector dial watches with stepped bezels, a chronograph for classic car racing or a Calatrava-styled watch that caused a stir, there’s undeniable desirability in what are still fairly accessible watches. Following the recent Hermétique Tourer and its tool-watch vibe, the brand goes back to elegance with a watch that marks a step up in refinement and execution. Meet the slightly groovy, retro-chic Baltic Prismic collection. 

Whether sporty or dressy, there’s always a clear retro inspiration in Baltic’s watches. We’ve seen classic 1960s dive watches, appealing 1930s Calatrava styles, 1940s-inspired sector dials or chronographs modelled after the golden era of motorsport. With the Prismic Collection, Baltic returns to more elegant watches, which are “inspired by geometric shapes and luminous refractions of the prism“. But more than anything, the Baltic Prismic takes design cues from a slightly later era of dress watches, when design became bolder, groovier and without the constraints of the early 1950s: the so-called cocktail watches, made during the 1960s by Patek or Vacheron, with expressive designs, fancy markers, bracelets replacing straps… Watches meant to be worn in a stylish bar, sipping an old-fashioned, lighting a cigar with a golden lighter, before driving back in a 1962 Cadillac Eldorado with oversized tailfins or something like a Facel Vega HK 500 if you lived in Europe… I must admit that this new Prismic immediately gave me a Mad Men vibe.

As always with the French brand, things are not just a carbon copy of the past. While there is an undeniable vintage vibe here, the Baltic Prismic is a modern expression of a certain era. But beyond a winning design, this new collection is also important in my books because it marks a step up in execution. The level of detail on the case and dial is rather impressive, specifically in this price range.

With the Baltic Prismic, we’re looking at yet another compact dress watch, something that has been explored already with the MR01 or the HMS 003. That being said, there’s nothing in common with these two existing collections and the Prismic plays on a different vibe altogether. Sharper, far more distinctive and fancier, it is almost extravagant in its details – something that’s also reflected in the choice of colours. It’s also a watch with a clever construction.

The case of the Baltic Prismic measures 36mm in diameter and 44mm in length. Once again, it is deliberately compact – something some won’t appreciate but I personally appreciate both the size and the dedication of the brand to stick to these proportions. It’s also a fairly thin watch, measuring just over 9mm in height, with a fair portion of that to be credited to the double-domed sapphire crystal. But don’t just look at the numbers; this watch has more presence on the wrist than you’d imagine.

The case is a pretty complex one, too. First, it combines stainless steel for the bezel, lugs and caseback and grade 5 titanium for the middle case. Multiple finishes adorn the case, with lugs that are polished on top and brushed on the flanks, while the titanium band has a slightly grainy finish, contrasting with the polished bands on the edges of the bezel and caseback. The upper part of the stepped bezel is polished, while the periphery is circular brushed. The sharp lines also add to the overall refinement. The case is interesting in the noble sense of the word. Even the knurled pattern of the crown is unconventional.

This level of detail is carried over the dials, too, available in four different colours – light grey-blue, salmon, green and purple (the latter being a bold but recommended choice). Besides these original tones, the dial of the Prismic is quite a looker. The central part features a sunray-like guilloché effect and is framed by a circular-brushed chapter ring. Applied, faceted markers punctuate it, with the smaller diamond-shaped hours markers adding a sophisticated look and producing a surprising interplay of depth and light reflections. The hands, brushed on top and with polished chamfers, are also impressively detailed, and the small seconds dial comes with its own range of details too. A lot is going on this dial, but the result is consistent with the case and the inspiration.

Under the sapphire caseback is a classic hand-wound movement, the ETA Peseux 7001. This tried-and-tested architecture provides thinness and, if nothing spectacular, it remains a pleasing sight for watch enthusiasts. Beating at a 3Hz frequency, it boasts 42 hours of power reserve.

Available on a selection of textured leather straps, closed by a pin buckle, the watches from this new Baltic Prismic collection create even more impact when worn on the brushed, braided “mesh-like” stainless steel bracelet. Closed by a sliding clasp, it features curved ends for an elegant integration and is pleasantly supple. Both the straps and bracelets are equipped with a quick-release system.

Released as part of the permanent collection, with first deliveries expected in July 2024, the Baltic Prismic will be priced at EUR 990 (excl. taxes) on a leather strap or EUR 1,050 (excl. taxes) on a steel mesh bracelet – objectively competitive considering the level of detail on the cases and dials, and the presence of a Swiss ETA movement.

For more details, please visit baltic-watches.com.