Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 collection was unveiled in 2019 and marked the brand’s first important product launch in 20 years. Comprised of six models, 13 references, and three of in-house calibres, its distinctive 41mm case design was, as the brand pointed out, “consciously thought for both men and women”. Presented in January 2022, these two gem-set models blanketed with more than 1,000 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case are clearly earmarked for women and marked a first for the Code 11.59 collection.
Diamond paved gold cases and dials
The complex architecture of the 41mm case, with its octagonal middle case sandwiched between a thin bezel and round caseback, sparkles with the light of 473 brilliant-cut diamonds (~2.69 carats). The most salient feature of the case is the octagonal central container that pays homage to the iconic octagonal bezel of the Royal Oak. Viewed from the side, you can how the floating lugs are hollowed and welded to the bezel module. Every surface is paved with diamonds, from the stylised lugs to the octagonal middle case and all the way to the grooves in the crown. To cater to the different geometries of the case, the stones are cut in different sizes. This can be clearly seen on the lugs as the diamonds taper in size to follow their contours.
The 18k white or pink gold dials are set with 612 brilliant-cut diamonds (~2.3 carats) radiating from the centre like sunbeams. Almost like a fumé or gradient dial that intensifies in colour as it reaches the perimeter, the diamonds are smaller in the centre and increase in size as they reach the bezel. To be more specific six different stone diameters, ranging from ~0.65 to ~1.10mm, are used to create the concentric pattern. Using a grain setting, the faceted stones are held in place by small prongs or beads in close proximity to form a uniform sparkling surface that attracts and reflects the light. To enhance and magnify the spectacle of the ever-changing light on the dial, AP has created a contemporary double curved sapphire crystal with an internal dome and a vertical curve from 6 to 12 o’clock.
Both models have tone-on-tone bezels with short, thin black lines that are an extension of the indices on the dial; the white gold model features a rhodium-toned inner bezel and the pink gold a pink gold-toned bezel. Applying the white or pink gold hour markers and Arabic numerals on the dial, in between the diamonds proved a complex operation. In a departure from earlier Code 11.59 straightforward Selfwinding models, the dial of this watch dispenses with the date window to highlight the gem-set dial.
Satin straps look great on jewellery watches, and AP has provided the new Code 11.59 with elegant satin-finished calfskin straps in a blue-grey shade for the white gold and a delicate beige hue for the pink gold. The gold folding clasp is also set with brilliant-cut diamonds underscoring the watch’s feminine personality.
The Code 11.59 jewellery models are powered by AP’s in-house calibre 4309, the brand’s latest automatic movement for hours, minutes and central seconds. The large 32mm diameter of the movement ensures excellent chronometric performance and delivers a solid 70-hour power reserve. The sapphire caseback reveals the movement’s Haute Horlogerie decorations, including Côtes de Genève, satin-brushing, circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers, as well as the collection’s dedicated 22k pink gold oscillating weight.
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 in white gold (ref.15210BC.ZZ.D013VE.01) and rose gold (ref. 15210OR.ZZ.D300VE.01) retail for EUR 104,100 (incl. taxes).
For more information, please visit Audemars Piguet.com.