The Captivating Vintage Appeal of the new Angelus Chronographe Télémètre

For some people at MONOCHROME, the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre might be one of the top watches at Watches & Wonders. Angelus, a legendary brand famous for its exceptional chronographs, was resurrected in 2015, resulting in contemporary-looking models that didn’t capture the spirit of its golden oldies. All that changed in 2023 with the launch of the La Fabrique collection with the compact vintage-inspired Chronographe Médical, followed by the Instrument de Vitesse chronograph. Sharing the same movement, the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre is a 37mm monopusher inspired by past models of the brand… And it looks fantastic, front and back.

Founded in 1891 by the Stoltz brothers, Angelus released its first in-house monopusher chronograph in 1925. While other top-tier brands were producing chronographs with outsourced movements during this period, Angelus’ in-house chronographs are some of the most desirable among collectors. The new Angelus Chronographe Télémètre clearly surfs on this vintage vibe and mechanical appeal, including a great movement with pedigree inside.

Presented in a super-compact 37mm case in steel or 18k yellow gold with a thickness of 9.25mm, the dramatic sweeping shape of the lugs is highlighted with brushed finishes and brightly polished bevels. Underscoring its delectable vintage looks, a box sapphire crystal rises above the bezel and protects the dial.

The powerful retro mood of the watch is further consolidated on the domed dial with a bi-compax layout and recessed snailed counters at 3 o’clock for 30-minute elapsed times and at 9 o’clock for the small seconds. While the centre of the dial is grained, the telemeter scale on the periphery is satin-brushed, and there is a small, diamond-polished trough or depression separating the scale from the central area. The applied indices and Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 feature a 3N gold finish or a black rhodium treatment, matching the syringe-style hour and minute hands with an inlay of Super-LumiNova.

The yellow gold model comes with an off-white, almost nickel-coloured dial, and the steel comes with a gorgeous bronze rose dial or a titanium grey-coloured dial. While the colours are hard to describe, they elevate the appeal of the watch even further.

The in-house A5000 integrated manual-winding monopusher chronograph powers the watch. Produced by La Joux-Perret, you can read about the fascinating origins of this beautiful movement here. The beautiful classical layout of the movement, revealing the gears, levers, springs, and column wheel, is a treat. Decorated with refined finishings, the slim 4.4mm thick movement presents a two-tone aesthetic with golden finishes on the mainplate and bridges and palladium for the chronograph components. Beating at 3Hz, the chronograph is controlled by a column wheel and a horizontal clutch, just as it was in chronographs produced between the 1940s and 1970s.

The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre comes on a calfskin strap – blue, grey or sage – with a steel or yellow gold pin buckle. The gold edition is limited to 15 pieces and retails for CHF 32,300 (incl. VAT), while the two steel models are limited to 25 pieces in each colour with a price of CHF 17,900 (incl. VAT).

More information at angelus-watches.com.