Impressions about the new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (Side by Side with the Old FOiS)

The new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (for First Omega in Space) is the perfect example of a watch that’s not particularly spectacular, groundbreaking or innovative. But more often than not, a great watch doesn’t need to be a game-changer. The 2024 Speedmaster FOiS comes in continuity to a concept introduced in 2012, a vintage-inspired watch celebrating the first space flight of an Omega watch. It retains what should be retained, it upgrades what could be upgraded and somehow brings what the fan base wanted to see in this watch. Following our introducing article, it’s time now for us to bring our hands-on impressions… And also to compare this new FOiS to the now-discontinued 1st-generation Speedmaster First Omega in Space.

While we’ll dive into the specifics of the 2024 Speedmaster FOiS in a bit, you can start by reading several stories that might be of help in this context. We won’t re-do the entire story of the original 1962 Mercury-Atlas 8 mission and the watch worn by astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra, but you can check it here. Also, you can read our in-depth article about the 2012 Speedmaster FOiS here, to give you a solid idea of what we’re about to discuss. Now, we’ll focus on what we thought about the new Speedmaster First Omega in Space and how it compares to the previous generation.

The new Speedmaster FOiS

Like the 2012 edition, which was discontinued in 2021, the new Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space is inspired by the watch Wally Schirra wore on his October 1962 flight onboard the Sigma 7 spacecraft. As such, it is modelled after a second-generation Speedmaster, the 1959 reference CK2998 (and to be precise a reference CK2998-4, as worn by Wally Schirra). This means an early Speedmaster with a symmetrical case, straight lugs, unprotected crown and pushers, and a calibre 321 inside (like the first-gen CK2915) but some evolutions too, such as a black aluminium bezel insert with base-500 tachymeter scale and metallic Alpha hands (replacing the initial broad arrow hands, but preceding the classic white baton hands that will be found on all Pro Speedies later).

But while the inspiration is the same, the new Speedmaster FOiS has changed compared to the old version, in many more aspects than you might think at first sight. We’re here talking about a wide collection of updates and upgrades that range from minimal visual adjustments to deeper evolutions that are not necessarily obvious at first, but make a world of difference – at least within the small world of Speedmaster fans.

It starts with a case that mimics the look and proportions of the old CK2998. As such, the steel case has the classic symmetrical shape with straight lugs, no lateral protection for the crown and pushers (which was introduced later with the ST 105.012, around 1964) and a bezel equipped with a black anodized aluminium insert. The measurements are copied on the old watch too, at least for most of it, with a 39.7mm diameter (which is the diameter of the bezel, the mid-case is slightly smaller), a thickness of 13.4mm (a pleasant 0.6mm less than the gen-1 FOiS) and a rather long case of 48mm – symmetrical Speedmasters were always longer than the more recent Professional models, which is 47.5mm in its current form.

This is for the wide image. A closer inspection reveals an array of evolutions compared to the 2012 model. In fact, I will go as far as saying that these two watches probably share only very few parts. A closer inspection reveals that, for instance, the shape of the lugs has been revised with a less angled lateral bevel. The crown and pushers are also different and enlarged on the new FOiS, the crown being thicker and both elements closer in style to the CK2998.

Then, there’s also a new bezel insert. While it remains done in black aluminium and bears a base-500 tachymeter scale, the look is now faithful to the vintage watch with the “dot over 90” (DON) and “diagonal 70” (minimal changes, but some that matter to the fans). The main and most important evolution concerns the crystal. For years, Speedmaster watches equipped with a sapphire crystal featured a tall, chimney-shaped crystal with a “milky ring” effect. With the 2024 Speedmaster FOiS, Omega is bringing a new sapphire crystal that’s been shaped almost identically to the Hesalite crystal, thus far more rounded and domed, with a more faithful vintage style. It adds an undeniable layer of charm and even comes with the small Ω logo engraved in the centre. Somehow, we now have the best of both worlds; the resistance of sapphire and the great looks of Hesalite.

Moving to the back, the new Speedmaster FOiS also enhances its vintage feeling with a new caseback with a double-stepped profile and a far more discreet, more historically relevant engravings including the classic seahorse and the mention of the date of Schirra’s flight. There’s no more mention of the unique number of the watch like in the past, as the newest FOiS isn’t a numbered edition anymore.

As we’re talking about what’s happening on the back, there are fairly important evolutions here too, as this First Omega in Space is now powered by the Calibre 3861, the latest evolution of the brand’s emblematic hand-wound chronograph. Despite being based on the same architecture as the 2012 FOiS, itself based on a movement found in the Speedmaster since the late 1960s, the new calibre brings its fair share of modernity, with a co-axial escapement, anti-magnetic parts including silicon escapement and balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. Like most modern Omega movements, it is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS, can resist strong magnetic fields, its accuracy is rated for 0/+5 seconds/day and it comes with a 5-year warranty. Yet, it retains a classic 3Hz frequency and a cam-operated chronograph mechanism.

Moving on to the dial, there are once again major updates here. The most obvious evolution of this new Speedmaster FOiS is the colour. The watch now has a sunray-brushed dial with a (extremely hard to catch in photo) grey-blue CVD colour that is a tribute to rare vintage Speedmasters. The colour is discreet to the point of having a dial that appears black in most conditions. Only when the light hits the dial at the right angle, it’ll add a touch of colour – which is for the best. Going into the details, you can note that the dial has now multiple references to the past, such as a stepped profile, elongated 5-minute markers, historical logos (whether the applied Ω but also the Omega and Speedmaster mentions in the vintage font) and classic bowl-shaped sunken sub-dials. Hands are classic Alpha-shaped in polished metal like they should be on a CK2998. And yes, Omega has added radium-like fauxtina on markers and hands… It’s a point of debate, but this dark lume colour adds charm and differentiates it from a normal Speedmaster Moonwatch. To each his own.

Last but not least, Omega continues to offer the Speedmaster FOiS on a leather strap, closed by a pin buckle – you’ll have the choice between brown and black leather – but also now (finally) adds the option for a steel bracelet. Owners of the old model have long used third-party suppliers but now the FOiS has its own, genuine flat-link bracelet with brushed centre links, polished outer links and a nice vintage look. The bracelet is thin, flexible and nicely executed, and is closed by a folding clasp with tool-free micro-adjustment. It measures 19mm between the lugs, like the original CK2998.

How is the new Speedmaster FOiS and how it looks next to the old version?

Well, it’ll be hard to hide the truth… This new 2024 Speedmaster FOiS is good. Very good, actually. Some changes make sense and were expected, such as the integration of the modern Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, the addition of a steel bracelet or certain references to the vintage watches that we have seen already in the classic Moonwatch Professional – the stepped dial or the DON, for example. Some of the new elements are, however, welcome surprises, even though answering comments from the crowd, such as the faithful historical look of the case, caseback and dial, but also the newly-shaped sapphire crystal. One could argue about the rather long case, but then again at 48mm in length, it is faithful to the original watch (symmetrical Speedies are longer than asymmetrical ones), or the relatively limited 50m water-resistance.

Now, if you look at this 2nd-generation FOiS next to the 1st-generation model, you can see how different they are in terms of overall feeling. Surely, in objective terms, differences are rather minimal and concern details. However, subjectively, there’s something far warmer, much more retro-inspired and more charming in the new edition. The old FOiS was a rather cold watch with maybe too many resemblances with a classic Professional Moonwatch, aside from the shape of the case and the handset (and many other details). Now, Omega has done a clear differentiation, making the new FOiS a watch that doesn’t necessarily compete with a modern Moonwatch.

The addition of colour to the dial is not only an appealing move but also changes from the classic matte black of most Speedmasters. The patina-like luminescent material is debatable, but once again set this watch in the “vintage-oriented” category, something reinforced by all the small elements on the dial, bezel and case (pushers, crown, back). I know that tastes and colours are personal, but it’ll be hard not to prefer the new FOiS over the older model… It’s a rather clever update altogether. And one that looks quite stunning.

Now there’s always the comparison with the other vintage-inspired Speedmaster, the one-and-only “Ed White” Speedmaster Calibre 321 – a watch that I once named “the ultimate Speedmaster.” Well, now that we have seen the new First Omega in Space, the supremacy of the 321 could be slightly disputed. Sure, the Ed White Calibre 321 gains points with the appeal of its historical movement, but it has to deal with a tall, squarish sapphire crystal, a ceramic insert (no problem on my side, but not historically relevant) and mostly a drastically different price tag (about double the price). Not to mention the very limited availability.

So, if you’re in the market for a vintage-inspired Speedmaster that’s readily available (the new FOiS isn’t limited, nor numbered), that looks fantastic, that has real charm and authenticity, but also modernity where it needs, then you’ll have a winner. As for the price, at EUR 8,700 on steel bracelet and EUR 8,300 on leather strap, it is 100 euros cheaper than a classic sapphire-sandwich Professional Moonwatch. I’m not going to say that it is accessible (prices have gone up in recent years…), but compared to the rest of the collection, it seems fairly priced.

Anything to complain about this new Speedmaster FOiS…? Apart from it not being to your visual liking (which is completely fair), and being maybe a bit low on water-resistance, there’s hardly anything wrong with it. It is one of the best Speedmaster models available, and choosing between this one and a classic Moonwatch will be tough.

For more details, please visit www.omegawatches.com.