Two New Editions of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

The worthy successor of the 222 model (which is still made by the brand as part of the Historiques Collection), the Overseas has been Vacheron Constantin‘s vision of the luxury sports watch, a model made to compete with the two other icons of the genre, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. The current Overseas, which was introduced in 2016, has been presented in countless versions, from time-and-date to chronograph or retrograde moon versions (to name a few). There’s even a Grande Complication. One of the most appealing versions, to me at least, has always been the closed dial Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, somehow forgotten in recent years at the benefit of its Skeleton counterpart. The slender, complex watch is now back in two new editions, one in full pink gold, one in white gold with a burgundy dial.

Technically speaking, there are no evolutions to report. The two watches we’re looking at today are the same as when the model was initially launched in 2016 – a watch that we have extensively reviewed here, if you want to have the full details about it. In both cases, we’re talking about a fairly large model measuring 41.5mm in diameter – that said, the watch wears slightly shorter on the wrist than you’d imagine. What’s far more interesting is the thickness, measured at only 8.1mm. Sure, it’s not record-thin like Bulgari (5.80mm) or Audemars (6.30mm), but it’s nevertheless one of the thinnest QPs on the market, and the same thickness as a 16202ST – which isn’t what you’d call a thick watch. Except that here, you have more indications on the dial.

Design-wise, we’re in classic Overseas territory, with a barrel-shaped case surmounted by a Maltese cross-inspired notched bezel. The two editions are worn on a solid gold bracelet – known to be both extremely well finished and comfortable – closed by a folding clasp with Easy-fit system (micro-adjust). Thanks to an easy-interchangeability system, you can also quickly change to one of the two rubber straps included with each of the watches (pink gold gets white and blue straps, white gold gets white and burgundy straps). An additional gold folding clasp is also included.

Inside the case is a well-known movement, the Calibre 1120 QP. Based on a JLC movement that was once at the heart of the 222, this ultra-thin automatic movement is now made in-house by Vacheron Constantin, with an additional perpetual calendar module on top. Beating at 2.75Hz, it stores about 40h of power reserve and is certified by the Hallmark of Geneva. It indicates the hours, minutes, the phases of the moon, and the perpetual calendar with day, month and a 48-month display with leap year.

New for 2025 are thus these two versions of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The first edition is all about pink gold, which is found on the case, bracelet, dial, hands and applied markers. Even the moon matches the dial. The second model is more contrasted with its white gold case and burgundy lacquered dial. The latter is equipped with tone-on-tone sub-dials and moon, and white gold applied markers and hands.

Both new versions of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin will be part of the permanent collection and priced at EUR 134,000, including taxes. More details at vacheron-constantin.com.