Following the introduction of its new collection just over a month ago at Watches & Wonders, we clearly didn’t expect to see new models from Tudor for a while… And certainly, we didn’t expect to see something as big as what’s coming today. Sure, there’s a new Black Bay Ceramic, which was somehow announced two years ago with a unique model for Only Watch charity auction. Sure, it looks cool (better than the OW model…) and is the first time ceramic is used in this collection. But most importantly, the big deal is in the technologies, and specifically in the certifications, as the manufacture calibre has been reworked and is now Master Chronometer certified by METAS, with impressive 15,000-gauss magnetic resistance… something that is not exclusive to Omega anymore (but was never meant to be from the very beginning). So let’s have a look at this new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic M79210CNU.
The idea of the Black Bay Ceramic was teased by the brand more than two years ago already, with the watch you can see above, the unique Black Bay Ceramic One auditioned for Only Watch 2019. This year, the watch comes in a more classic edition, which is available to a wider audience (not limited) and with some slight visual modifications.
The 41mm case of this Tudor Black Bay Ceramic M79210CNU is made of matte black ceramic with a micro-blasted finish and monobloc middle case architecture. It retains the classic proportions and shape of the BB 41 collection, with the non-protected oversized crown, the bevels on the lugs and the same overall diameter. New to this watch, the unidirectional bezel is in PVD-coated stainless steel with a black ceramic insert with sunray satin finish and engraved markings… and without luminous pearl at 12 o’clock. The watch is topped by an ultra-domed sapphire crystal and, thanks to a screw-down crown and caseback, it retains its 200m water-resistance.
Another evolution for this new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic, compared to the unique model of 2019, is its dial. Still domed and matte black, it now features dark-grey coated applied indexes and Snowflake hands, filled with grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova… and not black material as in the prototype. Far more legible indeed. No date comes to disturb the clean display and the printings on the dial are relatively discreet, as executed in grey.
The watch is worn on a hybrid leather and rubber strap closed by a black coated folding buckle. An additional textile strap with beige band and PVD coated hardware is also included. All in all, Tudor brings a cool, stealth edition of its Black Bay that is visually pleasant. But there is far more to this watch…
Tudor goes METAS and Master Chronometer
Here’s the real deal with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic… It is indeed announcing Tudor’s entry in the brands obtaining the Master Chronometer certification. As of now, only Omega was submitting its watches to this stringent testing procedure. Yet, as explained by the Biel-based brand, the certification developed with METAS was not the exclusivity of Omega and was meant to become the new standard for the industry, covering most of the aspects that can affect a watch, including the risks inherent to magnetism.
Tudor is thus the second brand to have successfully submitted watches for tests to obtain a Master Chronometer certification. As explained by the brand “This is the first application of this standard to a watch in the Tudor collection. This certification, which requires a substantial number of changes to the Tudor Manufacture Calibre, will mean that Tudor will be able to offer accreditation by an independent body.”
What does this move to Master Chronometer and METAS certification mean? Well, this requires intense work on the movement, specifically on the most crucial parts that are responsible for the regulation of the movement. METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve.
- Precision: a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0 +5), that is to say, 5 seconds less than COSC (-4 +6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard, which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre (-2 +4)
- Magnetic resistance: watches with Master Chronometer/METAS certification must retain timekeeping accuracy when subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000-gauss
- Waterproofness: the waterproof capability claimed by the manufacturer conforms with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standard 22810:2010
- Power reserve: same as above, the power reserve claimed by the manufacturer conforms with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
- Swiss made: the watch must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
For all of these reasons, the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic M79210CNU features a newly developed version of the classic manufacture automatic movement, the new Calibre MT5602-1U. If most of the specifications are identical to previous models – 31.8mm diameter, 25 jewels, 70h power reserve, 28,800 vibrations/hour – some work has been done on both chronometric parts and anti-magnetic components, even though Tudor doesn’t list the new parts or technologies involved, except that the hairspring is made of silicon (which was already the case on previous manufacture movements). It also retains its variable inertia balance and transversal bridge.
Then, the movement has been drastically reworked in terms of decoration, which is visible through the sapphire caseback. While the bridges and plates are now blackened, the rotor is now a monoblock construction and is made of openworked tungsten, with satin-brushed and sandblasted details. The bridges have geometric patterns in relief with alternating sandblasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Availability & price
The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic M79210CNU-0001 will be offered in the permanent collection. In addition to the COSC and Master Chronometer certifications, it comes with a 5-year transferable guarantee with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required. Tudor recommends 10-year service intervals.
The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic and its two straps will be priced at EUR 4,440. For more details, please visit tudorwatch.com.