Monochrome Watches
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The Vertex M60 AquaLion, the Brand’s First Dive Watch

The revived “Dirty Dozen” brand Vertex goes aquatic with the M60 AquaLion collection.

| By Robin Nooy | 2 min read |

If you are familiar with the term “Dirty Dozen” in watchmaking, you are probably familiar with Vertex. Vertex was one of the 12 licensed suppliers to the British Ministry of Defense to produce a military watch built according to the W.W.W standards. Revived in 2016, a century after the company was first founded, Vertex has since been hard at work reinstating the company’s legacy with a series of military-inspired watches. One of which is of course a recreation of the important Vertex from the WWII era. Now, changing course from skies to sea, the brand introduces the Vertex M60 AquaLion.

Vertex M60 AquaLion Dive Watch

Since the brand’s resurrection, we’ve seen multiple iterations of military-inspired pilot’s watches from Vertex, including monopusher chronographs. The M100 series of watches are based on the famous “Dirty Dozen” watch, but with a modern touch. The MP45 is Vertex’ monopusher chronograph model which comes in several variations. Now joining the ranks is the M60 AquaLion, the first dive watch collection by Vertex.

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Vertex M60 AquaLion Dive Watch

The Vertex M60 has a 40mm wide and 14mm tall stainless steel case. On top, there’s a unidirectional rotating bezel with a matte black ceramic insert and a contrasting diving scale. The edge of the bezel has a distinct profile, featuring knurled sections interchanged with curved recessed sections for a sturdy grip when needed. The case has a mostly brushed finish, with a polished bevel along the lugs. The solid caseback is decorated with the image of the AquaLion, a mythical half-lion half-fish creature. Along with the screw-down crown, this watch’s construction results in 600m water-resistance and ISO 6425 compliance.

Vertex offers the M60 AquaLion in a date or no-date configuration. The highly legible matte black dial is finished with a crisp minute track on the outside perimeter. At 3/6/9/12 o’clock we see large, moulded Super-LumiNova X1 grade hour markers. A smart decision is to remove the 3 o’clock digit entirely instead of placing it on the inside of the framed window in the date configuration. Large polished hour and minute hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, as well as the arrow-tipped seconds hand. Overall, it looks quite fresh, yet comfortingly retro.

Vertex M60 AquaLion Dive Watch

Vertex has fitted the Sellita SW 300-1 into the M60 AquaLion. And as said, this automatic movement comes in a date or no-date construction. It is also a certified chronometer movement by COSC, vouching for its accuracy. The movement uses 21 jewels and runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz). Once fully wound, it will provide a running time of 42 hours in total.

Vertex offers the M60 AquaLion on a stainless steel bracelet with a folding buckle and a quick-release system. Next to that, you also get a single-strand “Zulu” strap and a black rubber diving strap (similar to the one on the M100 models). The Vertex M60 AquaLion retails for GBP 2,375 excluding taxes, for either of the two models.

Vertex M60 AquaLion Dive Watch

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1 response

  1. Interesting article – thanks. I have a lot of time for resurrected brands – particularly by family members. Don Cochrane of Vertex is a nice guy and I bought one of his first offerings. They make honest, decent quality pieces at a fair cost.

    On a general note though, does anyone else wonder how many sports-type watches we really need? There are now so many at this price point – from large established brands and newbies alike, that frankly look much the same. In many cases they have the same movements too With such a saturated market one wonders how folks can really choose. On a personal note, yes, I do have some examples of this genre, but I try to pick models that offer some distinct ive visual features, and/or other less common aspects.

    Lastly, and for the sake of correctness, the UK’s Minstry of Defence came into being in 1964, having been previously the War Office. Also, Defense contains but one pecurialty of US spelling!


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