The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 42mm Limited Edition for France

Jack Heuer’s Carrera chronograph and its affiliation with the racing track is borderline legendary, but there is an earlier, lesser-known chapter of the late 1940s involving the development of a purpose-built watch for Abercrombie & Fitch, the upscale American sporting goods company. Still a student, Jack Heuer enlisted his physics teacher to collaborate in the development of the Solunar, the world’s first watch to display tide times. In 1950, the colourful Heuer Seafarer chronograph with tide indication appeared, a wrist companion for maritime adventures, recently revived as a collaboration with Hodinkee. Just in time for the summer season, a new version of the Carrera Chronograph decked out in maritime colours joins the collection. An exclusive 500-piece limited edition for France, the dial of the more refined 42mm Carrera captures the spirit of the 1950s Seafarer.

Two years ago, TAG Heuer presented a special Carrera model for the French market, flying the colours of France’s flag. Based on the more luxurious 42mm Carrera introduced in 2020 to mark the brand’s 160^th anniversary, the distinguishing features of this model are its 42mm diameter and, like Jack Heuer’s 1963 chronograph, the absence of a tachymeter scale on the bezel. With its smooth, sleek, and polished bezel, which matches the top surfaces of the case, the watch exudes a more elegant vibe. However, the piston-style pushers, the large crown, angular lugs and the angled flange with the seconds/minutes track are a nod to early Carreras. Combining elegance with sportiness, the case can fathom depths of 100 metres.

Like the deepest waters of the sea, the dark blue opaline dial provides a sharp contrasting background to the silver sub-dials with snailed interiors and canary yellow lacquered hands. Although it is not marketed as a regatta timer, the 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock is divided into six 5-minute areas with alternating turquoise and silver wedges that double up as a graphic countdown device before the start of a race.

The small seconds indicator is reduced to just three slim markers and hosts a rectangular silver-framed date window at 6 o’clock. The hour and minute hands are filled with luminescent material, and the central chronograph seconds hand is lacquered in yellow paint, matching the hands in the counters.

Powered by the calibre TH20-00 (previously known as Heuer 02), an automatic column wheel chronograph with bidirectional winding, the movement delivers a robust 80-hour power reserve. The openworked shield-shaped rotor reveals some of the components, including the column wheel, and the Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges.

This TAG Heuer Carrera 42mm Chronograph Limited Edition is paired with a rally-style perforated dark blue calfskin strap with turquoise top stitching and a folding clasp. It is a limited edition of 500 pieces and will be available for sale exclusively in France for EUR 7,350. More information at tagheuer.com.