The Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447

The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series is all about traditional crafts deeply inspired by Japanese culture. And this collection has resulted in some of the most appealing dress watches of the brand. With this collection, Seiko brings classic artistic crafts such as enamel, Arita porcelain, Urushi lacquer, and even combinations of arts such as guilloché and enamel at relatively accessible prices (at least compared to the Swiss). The latest watch in the Craftsmanship Series brings a handsome black Urushi dial and combines it with a GMT complication, a first for the collection. Let’s have a look at this new SPB447. 

Besides the return of classic black Urushi lacquer to the collection, what matters most with this new Presage model is the arrival of a GMT complication. For the past two to three years, Seiko has been strongly focusing on the time zone display, bringing this practical feature to most of its collections, from affordable Seiko 5 Sport watches (Dive or Field) to Alpinist models, vintage-inspired Presage Style 60s, Prospex Diver models or even accessible and colourful Presage Cocktail watches. It’s now time for the brand’s métiers d’art collection to receive this function.

In most aspects, this new Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447 is a classic of the brand. It is housed in a case that could be a bit more compact but remains pleasantly proportioned at 40.2mm in diameter, 12.4mm in height and about 48mm in length. Made of stainless steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, the case is protected with a super-hard coating, bringing more resistance to scratches. The dial is topped by a dual-curved sapphire crystal, and the screwed caseback features a see-through window, in addition to ensuring a comfortable 100m water-resistance.

The pièce de resistance is, as always in this series, the dial. It comes with a glossy black Urushi lacquer dial. Urushi lacquer has been used since ancient times for bowls, plates, and other utensils because of its characteristics as a highly durable natural material. While ancient, this technique has been modernized, and Seiko uses a manufacturing method that directly combines metal and lacquer to create a smooth surface. Under the supervision of lacquer artist Isshu Tamura, craftsmen repeatedly apply and polish the lacquer dozens of times to produce a unique glossy depth. The deep black and glossy surface of the dial is paired with elegant touches of gold on the 24-hour scale and GMT hand. The hands and hour markers are white and coated with Lumibrite. A nice touch: the date disc matches the colour of the dial.

Under the caseback is the in-house calibre 6R54, a mid-range movement that we’ve already seen in the Alpinist GMT and Propex Diver GMT. This automatic engine runs at a 3Hz frequency and stores a solid 3-day power reserve. The claimed accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day should be taken as a very conservative result. Regarding the time zone function, Seiko relies here on a caller or office GMT function, with the 24-hour hand independently adjusted in one-hour increments by the crown.

Worn on a 20mm brown leather strap produced by a tannery certified by the Leather Working Group (responsibly made, sustainable leather production) and closed by a three-fold clasp, the Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447 is released as part of the permanent collection. It will be available as of October 1st, 2024, for EUR 1,850. For more details, please visit seikowatches.com.