The Elegant and Refined Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529

The Seiko Presage Classic Series has been on a quiet roll. Last year’s SPB463/465/467 trio set the tone with soft, bowl-shaped cases, curved dials inspired by silk, and a 3-day automatic movement that made the Presage feel both more Japanese and more purposeful. The open-heart SPB469/471 extended the idea with radial “raw silk” textures and a new five-row bracelet, tightening the family look. The new Seiko Presage SPB529 feels like the logical next step; it offers the same core architecture and 6R55 movement, but a new palette, fresh detailing, and a strap concept that adds craft and story without drifting from the Classic series concept. It is, potentially, one of the most elegant and refined Seiko watches we’ve seen in a while. 

The 40.2mm case of the Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529 reads smaller thanks to its rounded flanks, relatively short 46mm span, and the way the dual-curved sapphire visually slims the profile, despite the 13mm thickness (one area where Seiko should improve). It settles quickly, hugs rather than perches, and the oversized fluted crown is genuinely useful without being a nuisance. A small but very effective flourish is the (very discreet) golden-brown, coin-edge lower bezel ring: it warms the watch and links the steel to the dial like a gilt chapter ring on a vintage piece. You notice it, then forget it, which is precisely the point.

The Shiracha dial is where this reference earns its keep. Seiko’s gradient here is a tea-brown fade that deepens towards the edge, letting the applied baton indices and polished hands do the contrast work. The spearhead counterweight on the seconds hand gives the layout a signature without pulling focus, and the bevelled date at 3 o’clock keeps things tidy. What I liked most about handling it is how the dual-curved crystal and the dial’s gentle camber soften reflections. Legibility remains intact, and the gradient effect transforms the surface in a way a flat-lacquer dial never does. It’s quietly luxurious in the way good Presage often is, with texture and tone over embellishment tricks. But here, it just pushed things a few notches further.

The exhibition caseback reveals the familiar Calibre 6R55, an automatic movement running at 21,600 vibrations/hour, with 72 hours of autonomy, hacking/hand-winding, gold-tone rotor, with the “Limited Edition” engraving. Seiko’s quoted +25/-15s/day is conservative, and the long reserve is the real quality-of-life feature.

The strap used on this Presage SPB529 is a very interesting new element. Seiko has partnered with REGAL, a Japanese shoemaker, using upcycled leather offcuts. It’s not a gimmick: the grain looks right, it is supple from day one, and the three-fold clasp is low-profile and secure. More importantly, it suits the watch. Where last year’s Classic references leaned into steel multi-row bracelets, the SPB529’s leather brings out the warmth of the bezel ring and the Shiracha dial, pushing the watch further into “smart casual” without losing everyday credibility (100m water-resistance helps).

What you have is a Presage that refines rather than reinvents. The case still wears smaller than the numbers, the dial still tells a Japanese material story without falling into gimmicky marketing, and the movement still gives you that practical three-day runway. The new colourwork and strap make it feel different enough to stand on its own, and the price remains very Seiko, at EUR 1,120 or USD 1,050. This Seiko Presage SPB529 is limited to 3,000 pieces and is now available. If last year’s Classics gave you the shape and idea, this one adds warmth and texture you can feel.

For more information, please visit seikowatches.com.