The New Full-Titanium Santos de Cartier, and a Black Luminous Steel LM Model

The name Santos at Cartier carries a lot of weight. One of Cartier’s oldest collections, named after Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who commissioned a watch from his friend Louis Cartier in 1904 to be worn while piloting his flying machines, it took on a slightly different vocation in recent years, becoming the brand’s vision of an elegant sports watch. This has become even truer since the revamp of the collection in 2018. This year, the brand releases two particularly appealing new editions of its emblematic watch, both Santos de Cartier LM models. One is a classic with a twist, while the other adds a muted, almost utilitarian style to a design that is normally quite sophisticated – and this Santos de Cartier Titanium LM is the star of the show here.

Since 2018 and the return of the Santos de Cartier in a more modern, bolder shape, we have seen a wide variety of dials, colours, textures and even displays. What we’re looking at now is a duo of rather opposite watches: different in material, different in finishing, even quite novel altogether for one of the editions. But before we take a look at the most important of the two models, the titanium Santos de Cartier, let’s have a look at the steel, black dial edition.

Steel, Black Dial, luminous numerals

Known as the reference CRWSSA0096, this new take on the Santos de Cartier doesn’t feel novel at first sight. And in fact, it is the sum of existing parts, only mixed differently. The main point of interest in this new Santos LM model is the dial, or at least its combination with a classic steel case and bracelet. Indeed, a black dial with luminous numerals and hands isn’t new, but was previously the apanage of ADLC-coated editions of the Santos, as seen here. Vertically brushed in the centre, discreetly sunray brushed on the periphery, this lively and playful dial features classic Cartier Roman numerals in white, and coated with Super-LumiNova – usually, these are simply pad-printed and non-lumed.

In the same vein, the sword hands are blackened on the edges, resulting in a pretty cool shadow effect, but filled with white SLN. Finally, the railroad minute track also has lumed plots at every hour. This adds character, contrast, and, most importantly, all-day practicality to a watch that is, after all, meant to be sporty and versatile. A nice detail, the date disc matches the colour of the dial and doesn’t feel too intrusive. The monochromatic look is bold and modern, but retains the desired classicism you expect from Cartier.

This black luminous dial is housed in the LM (large model) stainless steel case that we’ve come to know since 2018, with a silvery-white dial (and many more colours). The case isn’t particularly compact and does make an impact on the wrist, measuring 39.8mm in width (about 37.5mm excl. crown guards), 47.5mm from lug to lug, but is fairly thin and ergonomic, with its contained 9.38mm thickness and curved profile. The finishing is classic, with brushed surfaces, polished bevels on the edges and, of course, the all-polished bezel with screws on top. The side is home to a heptagonal crown with a blue spinel cabochon, and a sapphire crystal on top.

Inside the case, no surprises as we find the calibre 1847 MC, an automatic movement running at 4Hz and storing about 42h of power reserve. Nothing specifically fancy here, but a fine self-winding movement that will bring the watch to life. The black luminous Santos de Cartier comes on the signature steel bracelet of the collection, with brushed surfaces and polished screws. It features the brand’s clever QuickSwitch system (super-practical quick-release) and SmartLink adjustment system (easy length adjustment), both explained here. An additional nubuck alligator strap is also included.

Available now as part of the collection, this new all-steel, sporty and lumed black dial version of the Santos de Cartier LM is priced at EUR 9,000, the same price as other LM models in white, blue, green or brown.

The Titanium Santos de Cartier LM

Now for something far more unexpected, and actually the first all-titanium watch by Cartier. The brand has used this material in the past, mostly for cases and bezels, but we have never seen this lightweight alloy used from head to toe. It is, at least to us, a pretty big deal and a watch that opens up a new visual and technical chapter for the brand. This titanium Santos LM indeed feels special.

Let’s first talk about the basics and known territories… While being made of titanium, this watch is Santos de Cartier through and through. As such, it shares the exact same dimensions as the steel model above – 39.8mm width x 47.5mm lug-to-lug x 9.38mm thickness – with not a single evolution regarding the design or shape of the case and bracelet. It retains the practical QuickSwitch system (not the SmartLink, though, but classic adjustment screws) and the movement inside is the calibre 1847 MC as mentioned above.

What is new, though, is the material, and it impacts the whole experience of wearing a Santos de Cartier. As mentioned, the dimensions are the same, meaning we’re still looking at a large-ish watch – the LM isn’t the smallest of watches, even though its proportions are still totally acceptable. However, look and feel are massively different. The case and bracelet are made of titanium, a first for Cartier – it took the brand many years to achieve this, just like Rolex with its Yacht-Master 42 – and it decided to give this version a completely different finish.

Cartier uses what it calls Grade 5 Extra Low Interstitial (ELI) titanium, an alloy with a reduced amount of additives (oxygen and iron) that is also known as grade 23 titanium, as used by Blancpain, for instance. Replacing the brushed parts found on the steel model, this Santos Titanium opts for bead-blasted surfaces, combined with the classic wide, polished bevels on the edges. The normally polished bezel is also matte blasted here, contrasting with the polished screws. The side is home to a crown with a black spinel, in line with the monochromatic feel of the watch. The same finishing continues on the bracelet.

As said, this has consequences, the first being a drastically reduced weight – below 100 grams, versus 145 grams in steel. This adds great comfort on a daily basis, compensating for the case’s somewhat large dimensions, even though it is a bit unsettling at first, changing our perception of how a Santos LM feels on the wrist – the same was true with the titanium Yacht-Master. The second effect is the muted, almost industrial look of the watch, resulting from the use of mostly matte titanium all around (screws and crown included, the only steel part being the clasp). There’s a certain duality in this Titanium Santos, as it feels very Cartier and at the same time, not Cartier at all – if you see what I mean. The lack of a polished bezel also significantly alters the overall perception of the watch.

Paired with a classic silvery-white dial with all the signature Cartier elements – black Roman numerals, secret signature, railway minute track and blued steel hands – the result is a watch that really caught our attention. It is modern, sleek and tones down the traditional luxury feel (sometimes slightly overdone) that Cartier usually applies to the Santos. Not to mention the comfort delivered by this unusual-for-Cartier alloy.

A pleasant surprise, and at EUR 11,400, it is not a cheap watch, but the price feels quite justified compared to steel, considering that titanium is more difficult to finish and, according to what Cartier told us, that this version “requires twice as much time to machine and finish due to the material’s tenacity.” This reference CRWSSA0089, also part of the permanent collection, will be available in November. A grey nubuck alligator strap with QuickSwitch system is also included.

For more details, please visit cartier.com.