SIHH 2017 – Ressence Type 1 “Squared”, the new Cushion-Shaped Version of The Minimalistic Watch
With Ressence, everything started with a style, a shape and a perception of the watch that were rather different from the traditional codes of watchmaking. Very round, almost void of case, smooth, without crown, almost entirely focused on the dial and the display, this concept used on the Type 1, and even emphasized on the Type 3, was the hallmark of the brand. Then came the Type 5, a dive watch which combined the Orbital Convex display with what was a proper materialized case. Today, Ressence comes with its fourth watch, the Type 12 (or Type 1 “Squared”), less dematerialized and more horological than before, in an assertive cushion-shaped case. Still, the fantastic “Beyond Hands” display of the brand has been kept.
This new Type 1² / Squared indeed keeps what have made Ressence so popular: its unique display based on orbital discs, with each of them displaying a separate indication. This unique horological complication is composed of co-planar discs and rings of different sizes, curved to match the bend of the glass that covers them. Recto, the discs create a flush dial. Verso, you have a complex mechanism names ROCS (for Ressence Orbital Convex System), which actually comprises 107 components for the ROCS 1 version that is in the standard Type 1 and in this Type 1 “Squared”. How does it work? In fact, this module is affixed on top of a traditional movement that however only drives the minute here (thus the main and large disc of the display). Once the minute disc is driven, the ROCS will separate the indication of the second and of the hours. With a complex series of gears, the minute will be slowed to create the hour display or accelerate to create the second display. The result is a sort of flat, almost printed like surface displaying the time in a regulator manner. For more, please look at our review of the Type 1.
With this new Ressence Type 1² Squared, this display is actually the only thing that has been kept. All the rest is new, different, improved… This watch reintroduces some of the classical codes of watchmaking to create a dressier, maybe easier to wear proposition, with completely different proportions and perception. Still, it is a Ressence, no doubt about it. The Type 1² differs from the rest of the collection both in its design and in its material. Born from the intersection of 4 spheres, it has a cushion shape case. It is also distinguished by its integrated lugs and an interchangeable bracelet system inherited from the Type 3.
Indeed, the main difference with the rest of the collection is that the Type 12 has a visible case (the other watches of course have a case, but it is almost hidden by highly domes crystals). Here, metal comes back in the show. Unlike other watches of the brand, this new Squared is not made out of grade 5 titanium but in polished stainless steel, with a satin finish back. The case is thinner (a very reasonable 11.5mm) and smaller (again a reasonable 41mm), due to the absence of the sapphire case back acting as a crown. Instead, there is a small retractable lever, which will certainly be easier to actuate than the rotatable sapphire caseback of the Type 1 (the caseback is used to wind the movement and to adjust the time and the date). When setting the time, the rotation of the lever corresponds exactly to the movement of the discs on the dial in a ratio of 1 to 1. Link to that is a welcome update of the ROCS module, with a user-friendly quick day setting. This technical evolution is also available on the original TYPE 1 models.
This Ressence Type 12 “Squared” will be available in 4 editions: Silver, Ruthenium, Night Blue and Champagne. It is produced in an unlimited but numbered edition. Price: 17,500 Euros (retail), thus the same price as a standard Type 1. More details on ressencewatches.com.
Specifications of the Ressence Type 12 “Squared”
- Case: 41mm diameter x 11.5mm thickness – stainless steel, polished and brushed surfaces – domed sapphire crystal on top, caseback used to set the time and wind the movement – 10m water resistant
- Movement: customised 2824/2 calibre as a base, addition in-house ROCS module for the display – 36H power reserve – 4Hz frequency – hours, minutes, seconds, date displayed by orbital discs
- Dial: Convex german silver dial with 3 eccentric biaxial satellites – available in Silver, Ruthenium, Night Blue and Champagne
- Strap: various leather strap options, including men and women version – steel pin buckle
- Price: 17,500 Euro
Just fabulous!! My grail watch. Well done, but please bring the price down. (sniff)