The Non-Plus-Ultra when it comes to perpetual calendars has always been the GMT +/- Perpetual from Ulysse Nardin, and developed by mastermind Ludwig Oechslin. It was the first perpetual calendar that allowed the time zones and date to be adjusted both forward and backward. While most other perpetual calendar watches had to be sent to the service center, when you adjusted the date wrongly, not so for the GMT +/- Perpetual from UN. After our pre-Baselworld introduction of the Dual-Time Manufacture (also with that nifty adjustment that goes forward and backwards) it’s time to present to you the new Perpetual Manufacture.
The Perpetual Manufacture is a numbered and limited edition of 250 pieces in rose gold and 250 pieces in platinum, to launch GMT +/- Perpetual with the new in-house movement, caliber UN-32. This movement features a silicon escapement (anchor, escape wheel and roller) and hairspring, which means that the most fragile parts in the movement are not affected by magnetism anymore. Besides that, they need for service (and lubrication) is also for a large part eliminated. The world’s most convenient perpetual calendars now comes in a 43 mm precious metal case and features a modern in-house movement from Ulysee Nardin, which is chronometer rated.
As Ulysse Nardin say, this one is crafted in celebration of infinity. It is powered by the incredible caliber UN-32 that features the most advanced perpetual calendar in the history of watchmaking and therefore bears a constant reminder on the dial: the symbol “∞”. This is infinity symbol reserved for these limited-edition pieces.
The perpetual calendar of this Perpetual Manufacture will require manual adjustment, for the first time, in 2100. Normally this would be a leap year, however it is an exception in the Gregorian calendar, so it can go without manual adjustment for the next 86 years.
The dial is very easy to read. Close to the 1 o’clock position is a big date, which is one of the ‘complications’ that is very useful on a daily basis. The other calendar displays (day, month, year) are positioned on the lower half of the dial. The year is just below the infinity symbol, and only indicated the last two digits; 14 in this year. The second time zone (GMT) indicates either your current time or a second time zone, with its red arrow tip on the flange marked with 24 hours. The second time zone can be adjusted (in both directions) by one or more positions simply by using the dedicated “+” and “-” push-pieces at 4 and 8 o’clock. The calendar functions synchronize automatically when the hour hand is changed.
More info: www.ulysse-nardin.com